Wheel Bearing Service, Lippert 5200Lb Axle

This procedure is for packing the wheel bearings on the Lippert axle. Same procedure for other axles but the seals & bearings may be different.

Info from one of my axles:

NV# 132113
LC152-SB-85.0-68.5-NOSP-OS-L-655-7225
5200 Lb
Model LC152
SN 317296

Tools required:
Jacks
Jack stands
Hammer
Chisle
Small common screwdriver
Large adjustable wrench
Rubber or wooden mallet
Torque wrench
1 ½” socket
Grease gun
Safety glasses


Supplies:
Seals: Timkin (National) 412920 (2.250 x 3.371 x .375)
Inner Bearing: Timkin 25580
Outer Bearing: Timkin LM67048
Lithium Grease (See Lippert procedure for acceptable type)
Brake Cleaner (2 cans minimum)

Notes:
For reference, download the Lippert Manual.

Double click any photo for a larger image.

Do not get grease on or near any of the brake parts, wash your hands frequently. Make sure your hands are clean before touching brake parts.

Keep parts from each hub together. Do not mix up bearings, they need to go back into the same place they were removed from. I use a separate piece of cardboard marked for each wheel. It gives me a clean place to put the parts and keeps them organized.


Procedure
Jack the axle up and support it with jack stands or timbers. Jacks alone are not a safe method for supporting the trailer.

Remove wheel.

Remove dust cap. I use a small chisel and gently tap it in between the dust cap lip and the hub until the dust cap moves out a little; turn the hub and repeat, gently working it off.
[img][/img]

[img][/img]

Bend down locking tab. Use a small screwdriver & hammer to gently bend down the locking tab that prevents the castle nut from moving.
[img][/img]

Remove castle nut (should only be finger tight), locking washer, and washer.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]

Remove outer wheel bearing.
[img][/img]

Remove hub.
[img][/img]

Remove old seal. This is the hard part. You will ruin the old seals getting them out, so plan on replacing them. I don’t have a seal puller so I found the best way was to use a small punch (photo shows a screwdriver, but punch works better) to tap in on the outer edge of the seal. This will loosen it and probably bend it. It will also probably push it further into the hub, no worries.
[img][/img]
Next, I used a large screwdriver, fit under the seal and hit the driver with a hammer; use it like a crow bar (please hold onto everything to keep stuff from flying around) (now would be a good time to remember to put on those safety glasses). Work around the seal until it pops out. The hub is much harder than the seal, so you should not damage it, but don’t get too carried away.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]

Remove inner bearing.
[img][/img]

Clean everything. Technically, if you are not changing types of grease, you do not have to remove the old stuff. I think Lippert used Lithium grease, which is what they call for when re-packing. I chose to remove all the old grease. I wipe as much as possible out of the hub with paper towels and then put everything in a parts washer.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]

Use brake cleaner to clean off all the brake parts.
[img][/img]

Use a grease gun to flush the old grease from the spindle. Use a rag to keep the grease away from the brake parts.
[img][/img]

Pack the bearings with fresh grease. I pack by hand. See Lippert procedure for instructions. Bottom line; get real messy and make sure there is plenty of grease in the bearing. Turn the outer part while holding the inner ring and press grease into the sides and into the rollers.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]

Grease the inner bearing cone and install the inner bearing.
[img][/img]

Apply a thin coating of Permatex sealant to the outside of the new seal.
[img][/img]

Use a wood block to tap the new seal into place. Make sure to tap evenly around the seal, do not get it too far in on one side before tapping the other side. Once it is in, you will not get it out without ruining it.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]

Use brake cleaner to clean the inside of the hub. There should not be any grease in here. Do not get brake cleaner in the bearings.
[img][/img]

Put the hub back onto the spindle. Be careful not to damage the new seal; try to keep the weight off the seal while placing the hub on the spindle.

Put some extra grease into the hub, put the outer bearing in place followed by the washer, locking device, and castle nut. Make sure all parts are clean before installing them.

While turning the hub, torque the castle nut to 50 fl lb. If you do not have a torque wrench or 1 ½” socket, don’t sweat it, just tighten it firmly.
[img][/img]

Back off the castle nut until it is loose, then tighten it finger tight.

Bend one of the locking tabs up to hold the castle nut in place. The nut should only be finger tight (after tightening to 50 ft lb, then loosening) and is held in place with the locking tab.
[img][/img]

Give the spindle zerk a few shots of grease while turning the hub.
[img][/img]

Gently tap the dust cover on with a rubber or wooden hammer or a piece of wood.
[img][/img]

Put your wheels back on and torque the lugs to 100 ft lb.