Help with winterizing 2012 323QB
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Help with winterizing 2012 323QB
I have a 2012 Wildcat 323QB with tankless water heater. The manual says to winterize pour 4 - 7 gallons of rv antifreeze in portable water tank and let the pump do its work throughout the camper. Well the pump is enclosed in the underbelly and not inside the rv like im use to in the past rvs I have owned. I have poured 13 gallons of antifreeze in the portable tank and the pump still wont pick it up. Any ideas? Thanks
WVEric- New member

- Number of posts: 12
Registration date: 2011-09-25
Re: Help with winterizing 2012 323QB
Well depends on where the pick up is in your tank and how your situated. I have the 2011 32qbt which in all matters is the same unit.,. When i Winterized I take the compartment panel in side the left storage compartment to expose the the pump and water filter.. I disconnect the the fitting to the fresh water tank in the back. I then take the fitting from the fresh and insert it into a pale of RV antifreeze . I start the pump to pressurize then start to turning on the taps..my hot water tank has a bypass(sorry not sure about how yours i) .
One thing that I want to do next year is make a T so I don't have to disconnect the fittings and also have a bypass or a stainless steel plate for the filter so I can winterize with one gallon of antifreeze(currently it takes 1.5 gallons)..
Hope this helps.
One thing that I want to do next year is make a T so I don't have to disconnect the fittings and also have a bypass or a stainless steel plate for the filter so I can winterize with one gallon of antifreeze(currently it takes 1.5 gallons)..
Hope this helps.
Minty- Member

- Number of posts: 49
Registration date: 2010-04-25
Age: 38
Re: Help with winterizing 2012 323QB
Instead of using the tank, get one of these: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/pump-converter-winterizer-kit/6279
I have been using this on my old trailer and this one for 10 years.
I have been using this on my old trailer and this one for 10 years.
_________________
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Mike's modifications: http://community.webshots.com/album/180262704smXHmj
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shooter- Wildcat resident guru

- Number of posts: 1465
Registration date: 2008-04-05
Location: Just West of Richmond, VA

Re: Help with winterizing 2012 323QB
Minty wrote: Well depends on where the pick up is in your tank and how your situated. I have the 2011 32qbt which in all matters is the same unit.,. When i Winterized I take the compartment panel in side the left storage compartment to expose the the pump and water filter.. I disconnect the the fitting to the fresh water tank in the back. I then take the fitting from the fresh and insert it into a pale of RV antifreeze . I start the pump to pressurize then start to turning on the taps..my hot water tank has a bypass(sorry not sure about how yours i) .
One thing that I want to do next year is make a T so I don't have to disconnect the fittings and also have a bypass or a stainless steel plate for the filter so I can winterize with one gallon of antifreeze(currently it takes 1.5 gallons)..
Hope this helps.
I found the pump behind a panel in the pass thru compartment. Now I need to drain the antifreeze out of the tank....any idea where the drain valve is. I have been all underneath the camper and all I see is a blue hose and clear hose.
WVEric- New member

- Number of posts: 12
Registration date: 2011-09-25
Re: Help with winterizing 2012 323QB
I just ordered the winterizing kit and 2gal antifreze for a total of $18.39 with free shipping, from Camping World. I had one of the kits on my other RV but cost a few dollars more and the antifreze cost more localy, If you are getting ready to winterize your RV now is the time to get your stuff while its on sale at camping world.
PS: I dont work for them either, but they do treat us campers real well and Ill continue useing them as long as Im into RV'ing
PS: I dont work for them either, but they do treat us campers real well and Ill continue useing them as long as Im into RV'ing

Rusty- Member

- Number of posts: 138
Registration date: 2011-03-27
Age: 64
Location: Sharon, West Virginia
Re: Help with winterizing 2012 323QB
Ouch 13 gallons thats a huge bill... I think the topic of not getting all of the fresh water in the tank has been covered here before...the pick up is not located on the bottom of the tank...so I can see that happening if it was dead empty? did you ever fill it? cause if that tank had the remainder of the fresh water in it the 13 gallons of antifreeze would have just diluted the water and it should have picked up something...
my guess is being a 2011 you were always on city water hook ups??? and never filled the fresh water tank...
Now the blue line under the belly might be the tank drain but every camper may be different...the clear line sounds like the fresh water tank vent...it sounds like you are on the right track it should have a cap on it... loosen the cap and see if you get the AF to drain out your gonna need buckets to catch it...
this might be a long post apologies in advance...
#1 you need to find your low point drains (mine were on the outer side of the drivers side frame) (also one set in the front storage compartment) the will have caps or plugs on them...
If you dont find them standing water will remain in them and freeze cracking them...open all faucets when you loosen the cap this will break the vacuum and allow the water to flow out...
#2 your hot water tank needs to be drained...there is a plug or anode rod located in the bottom...acess to this is on the exterior of the trailer...pull the plug and let it drain...
#3 you need to find the HW tank bypass... close the valves in order to isolate more water flowing into it then open the valve in the middle... this will allow antifreeze to flow to the hot faucets but not refill the HW tank...
at this point I use 35 PSI of air pressure to blow the lines out...you dont have to do this but its just my prefferance...I close all faucets and then go to each one individually opening them until the air pushes all the H20 out...you need a hose adapter to do this I made one up but i'm not sure if you can just buy one...i attach to the city/CG water hook up for this step...
now if you have found your pump this is were you can pick up the antifreeze...on the inlet side of the pump that hose fitting can be removed it is 1/2" npt thread...I bought a 1/2" by 3/8" brass bushing and a piece of clear viynel hose that fits tightly into the inner part of the bushing...thread that bushing into the female side of the pump inlet hose then you run that clear hose into your jug of A/F when you run the 12v pump it will pull that A/F up like majic. when the system is pressurized and the pump turns off you can go to each individual faucet and drain and run it untill you get the A/F... you will see the color red,orange or whatever...
Dont forget your toilet and your outside shower!
Also I use compressed air to blow back the line to the fresh water tank(the one you removed from the inlet of the pump)
Also I blew out the black tank wash sytem...WARNING IT WILL STINK!!!
It sounds like a lot of work but its really not that big of a deal...just remember that water wants to settle low so wherever you see a low spot in plumbing assume water may be there...and you need to get it out...
I used less than two gallons to winterize mine and that included pouring some in each sink trap...bigger FW's may need more but if you get even a little A/F at each water outlet you'll be fine...
I'm not much for typeing and my eyes are crossing now... so hopefully that will give you a direction to go in. If Ive forgot something someone else will chime in I'm sure...
Good luck
my guess is being a 2011 you were always on city water hook ups??? and never filled the fresh water tank...
Now the blue line under the belly might be the tank drain but every camper may be different...the clear line sounds like the fresh water tank vent...it sounds like you are on the right track it should have a cap on it... loosen the cap and see if you get the AF to drain out your gonna need buckets to catch it...
this might be a long post apologies in advance...
#1 you need to find your low point drains (mine were on the outer side of the drivers side frame) (also one set in the front storage compartment) the will have caps or plugs on them...
If you dont find them standing water will remain in them and freeze cracking them...open all faucets when you loosen the cap this will break the vacuum and allow the water to flow out...
#2 your hot water tank needs to be drained...there is a plug or anode rod located in the bottom...acess to this is on the exterior of the trailer...pull the plug and let it drain...
#3 you need to find the HW tank bypass... close the valves in order to isolate more water flowing into it then open the valve in the middle... this will allow antifreeze to flow to the hot faucets but not refill the HW tank...
at this point I use 35 PSI of air pressure to blow the lines out...you dont have to do this but its just my prefferance...I close all faucets and then go to each one individually opening them until the air pushes all the H20 out...you need a hose adapter to do this I made one up but i'm not sure if you can just buy one...i attach to the city/CG water hook up for this step...
now if you have found your pump this is were you can pick up the antifreeze...on the inlet side of the pump that hose fitting can be removed it is 1/2" npt thread...I bought a 1/2" by 3/8" brass bushing and a piece of clear viynel hose that fits tightly into the inner part of the bushing...thread that bushing into the female side of the pump inlet hose then you run that clear hose into your jug of A/F when you run the 12v pump it will pull that A/F up like majic. when the system is pressurized and the pump turns off you can go to each individual faucet and drain and run it untill you get the A/F... you will see the color red,orange or whatever...
Dont forget your toilet and your outside shower!
Also I use compressed air to blow back the line to the fresh water tank(the one you removed from the inlet of the pump)
Also I blew out the black tank wash sytem...WARNING IT WILL STINK!!!
It sounds like a lot of work but its really not that big of a deal...just remember that water wants to settle low so wherever you see a low spot in plumbing assume water may be there...and you need to get it out...
I used less than two gallons to winterize mine and that included pouring some in each sink trap...bigger FW's may need more but if you get even a little A/F at each water outlet you'll be fine...
I'm not much for typeing and my eyes are crossing now... so hopefully that will give you a direction to go in. If Ive forgot something someone else will chime in I'm sure...
Good luck

THEHIWAYMAN (aka Tim)- Member

- Number of posts: 144
Registration date: 2011-08-08
Location: Lebanon Maine
Re: Help with winterizing 2012 323QB
I thought this link might be helpful too:
http://www.wildcatcamperforum.com/t3546-winterizing-a-2011-wildcat-with-a-tankless-water-heater#33594
http://www.wildcatcamperforum.com/t3546-winterizing-a-2011-wildcat-with-a-tankless-water-heater#33594

Wildcat Chris- Sr Member

- Number of posts: 323
Registration date: 2010-01-12
Location: Elkhart, IN

Re: Help with winterizing 2012 323QB
Sorry Eric, I overlooked the fact of you having a Tankless WH so that part would not apply...
Hope the rest still helps
Hope the rest still helps

THEHIWAYMAN (aka Tim)- Member

- Number of posts: 144
Registration date: 2011-08-08
Location: Lebanon Maine
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