My Fresh Water Tank is Falling Down

I was under my new-to-me 5er (a 2007 Wildcat 24RL) that was only used a couple of times before I bought it (really), taping up the corrugated plastic belly covering where wires and sewer/gas lines pass through it(I'm sure there's a name for it) with Gorilla tape (because the factory job was a real slap-dash job that looked amateurish), and found that my water tank (Located at the back, just forward of the bumper) is hanging down about below the frame 3" on one side and an inch on the other, and had already torn the 1/4" thick corrugated plastic a good deal on the lower right side.

Unfortunately, dropping the plastic looks liner like more of a job than I'd like to do since at the rear, since they wrapped it up and over the top of a crosswise frame member, fastening it under the coach where I can't get at the fasteners. I could cut it completely across, then pull it down, and try to tape it all back together afterwards, but for integrity, I'd prefer not to do that. I don't trust Gorilla tape THAT much.

If I push the tank UP from underneath (where it easily moves up flush w/ the bottom of the trailer frame), and "drop" it, I can feel it's comes to rest firmly on something (maybe tank retention straps?), but they are definitely not as short as they need to be to hold the tank in its intended position (which I imagine is flush on the bottom w/ the trailer frame?).

I am scheduled to take the trailer out on a several-day first trip next week, and I want to be able to carry some water along, and I don't feel comfortable with it hanging so low.

I was thinking of bolting a 2"X4" across the trailer frame (under the corrugated liner) through the outer flanges of the trailer's "I-Beam" frame, which would support the tank all across. The tank is within 3" horizontally of the frame on the right side, and 1" on the left, so the 2"X4" would be supporting the tank not in the middle of its span, but very near the trailer frame, so shouldn't "bow" down in the middle to speak of.

Another alternative would be to use a piece (or two) 2"X2" angle iron bolted to the frame on both sides like the 2"X4" to support the tank. If I used two, I could space them so the tank was supported across the front and across the rear ends of the tank.

Anyone have this happen with theirs?

I called a dealer, who said you're not supposed to actually DRIVE the trailer w/ much water in the tank, and if the prior owner did that, the weight may have pulled the supports loose (though he couldn't say HOW the tank was actually held in place). The said they could probably fix it for about $800 or so, but I'd naturally prefer to do it as cheaply as possible if no harm is caused, especially if the repair is stronger than new.

Ideas?

Bob

That's a strange comment. I have had two Jayco trailers and have always filled my tanks full and traveled long distances, like 550 miles to Myrtle beach without any issues. I have a 2009 Wildcat and the same thing happened to me. I had some reinforcements welded to the frame to help support the freshwater tank.. That shouldn't happen.. good luck..

Bob
If you go the 2X2 angle path, I would put some plywood between the angle and the tank to spread out the load and prevent them from chaffing the tank. I have driven many times with water tank full from FL to Yellowstone NP and never had a problem. Well my water tank did leak but when it was down the repair shop showed me it was because the factory never put a complete weld on the fittings. Good luck,
Bob

Here's a photo:


I posted on another RV forum, and it seems this is pretty common.

I plan to mount two 2X2 steel tubes across the frame rails (bolted to them) w/ another connecting them (welded) in the center for more support under the center of the tank (which seems to be bulging down from water-weight in the past). Given the corrugated plastic belly liner will be between the steel and the tank, I think chaffing will be minimal, and it may prevent a tank failure at some point down the road.

I may mount a pick-up truck spare tire winch on the framing and put my spare down there if there's sufficient ground clearance. Two birds with one stone, and all that. The tire may be above the plane from the tires through the 2" receiver hitch, so the hitch will "protect" the spare by hitting the ground FIRST if anything hits.

Here's a picture of how they wrapped the coruplast up and over the rear crossmember making it hard to drop to inspect and repair inside the frame.

On our 24RL there is a crossmember in front of the fresh water tank. We cut the corrugated plastic on the crossmember and didn't have to work with the wraparound on the back. Self tapping screws put the corrugated plastic back like it was.

Also used 1/8 " plywood between the angle iron and square tubing used to anchor to tank to the RV, then the corrugated plastic was jput back in place.

Here's a link to my post on how I supported my water tank.
http://www.wildcatcamperforum.com/t4017-fresh-water-tank-support-upgrade-mod?highlight=tank


Earl

I had the same problem and did the same thing as Mopar_Earl. I have an album on photobucket but do not know how to post the link. When I did mine I shortened the fill hose by 15" and replaced the machine screws with new ones and used bigger flat washers. As well my water line to the pump was rubbing on the slide as it went in and out so glad I caught it. When putting the belly back on I filled all the cracks with spray insulation. With the belly on the ground it was a good time to do a thorough underneath inspection. Good luck

It is a common problem. Here is how I fixed mine.

Mopar_Earl wrote:Here's a link to my post on how I supported my water tank.
http://www.wildcatcamperforum.com/t4017-fresh-water-tank-support-upgrade-mod?highlight=tank


Earl

Thanks-

I should have realized how common my problem really is.

You don't appear to have the metal straps under your tank I have on mine. Seeing that mine are 28ga (paper thin) and that they are broken, probably better off w/o them anyway.

I am for now bolting 2X2 steel tubes under the tank (below the belly) to support the tank (since mine is hanging down 3" and not just sagging/bulging in the middle), but when I return from a trip next week, I'll cut my belly plastic and look at things more carefully.

I can already see the fittings are loose in my tank, and the tank is free to move around, so definitely needs fixing. I can't imagine many have stayed intact the way they were installed at the factory.

A little more engineering at the factory and this could have been eliminated. I can see why Forest River says not to carry much water in the tank on the road, but fill the tank when you arrive.

Bob

Follow-up...

I ended up fabricating a big "H" from 3 lengths 2" X 2" X 1/8" square tubing (2-71" and 1-11" length) and installed it under my tank with 2 3/8 bolts at each end (2 1/2" bolts installed from top w/ nylock nuts and flat washers under all heads). I would have liked to have inserted plywood under the entire tank, but we are leaving on a trip, and didn't want to get involved dropping the coroplast liner as it's supposed to rain from now 'til when we leave. I used up the last week getting the steel, and then re-wiring my mig welder to fabricate the tank brace rather than actually spending the time installing it (Why does everything take longer than you think it will?).

I WAS able to get a really good look at what was up there in the tank bay by looking up with a flashlight, and saw the tank really was not supported by anything substantial. The rear of the tank MAY have once been tucked into the rear forced "C" channel (but if so, it had moved forward and out of it), and while there is a cross beam in FRONT of the tank, it wasn't close enough to stop the tank from moving forward a couple of inches, and falling down.

The ONLY things retaining the tank up were two sheet-metal straps an inch wide and 30 gauge, which is 12/1000ths of an inch thick (0.012"). I usually use far heavier metal to flash roofs and such!

The straps were secured at their ends by ONE sheet metal screw driven through the strap's end, from which BOTH straps had torn free of.

To expect this method to support anything but an EMPTY tank on the highway is pure folly, so the dealer was probably RIGHT that Forest River does not DESIGN their tanks to hold water when actually driving down the road. I used upper case for "design," since obviously we have all successfully carried water on the road and gotten away with it.

I'll post a photo later, but in the meantime, for anyone who has not yet had his tank straps break or tear, or his tank bulge and crack, reinforcing or supporting the tank from the bottom may be a good preventative action to take.

The only things holding my tank in the trailer were the belly liner, the wires, and the hoses going to the tank! If I hadn't caught it, I think I'd have lost the tank on this trip (since my belly liner was tearing from the stress already). Now I feel good about this trip, and after a bit more Gorilla tape to patch my belly liner, I'll call it "good" until warmer and drier weather for a plywood support between the belly liner and the tank,

Thanks to all for their advice. It makes it a lot easier tearing into stuff when you know what to expect.

Bob