Wheel Torque

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Wheel Torque

Post by Kim on 10/18/2011, 4:10 pm

Now that I have my new fancy shmancy cordless impact driver I did a little research on wheel torque. I have always used 100 ft/bs as my rule of thumb and was surprised to find that all 3 of my vehicles have different specs; and not just a little bit.

2006 Honda Civic - 80 ft/lbs
1990 Corvette - 100 ft/lbs
2003 Silverado 2500 - 140 ft/lbs

So, my question is this...does anyone know what the wheel torque specification is for our Wildcats?

I'm not going to get anal about it but a spread of 80 - 140 on only 3 subject vehicles is fairly considerable.

thanks, Kim

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Re: Wheel Torque

Post by North7 on 10/19/2011, 1:33 am

Hi Kim,

I have the optional 16" aluminum wheels on mine and the service tech told me to torque the lugs to 115 when I called to ask about it. I believe it may be different for the 15" tires as he did ask me what size I had.

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Re: Wheel Torque

Post by Frank on 10/19/2011, 2:50 am

I have 15" steel wheels and I torque mine at 95 flp with a manual torque wrench.

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Re: Wheel Torque

Post by Mopar_Earl on 10/19/2011, 8:25 am

I torque mine to 95 as well. I want to be able to get the lugs broke loose along the road if I need to change a tire.

Earl

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Re: Wheel Torque

Post by Mopar_Earl on 10/19/2011, 9:15 am

Lippert specs are 90 to 120 for 15" and 16" wheels using 1/2" studs. From Lipperts axle owners manual.


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Re: Wheel Torque

Post by Cardinal_Bill on 10/19/2011, 9:44 am

Dunno about the FW. I generally kinda bounce on the end of a breaker bar. If it doesn't turn that's good enough. When I had the tires swapped on the truck I asked the guy what they set them at, noticed them hitting it with an impact wrench and then finished with a torque wrench, he said 105. My wife owned a car with aluminum rims. She had a flat and I literally jumped on the end of a breaker bar and couldn't get 3 of the 4 lugs off. I finally had to call somebody to come and fix it. Later when I took that same car in to have winter tires mounted they twisted a stud off trying to get one loose. And finally shortly after I retired I decided I wanted to drive up the haulroad over the Yukon and do Summer Solstice above the Arctic Circle. Before we left I had to take the little truck, we owned a tent trailer then, in and have somebody with an impact wrench break some of the lugs. Just so I could tighten them and know I could change a tire 180 miles up a gravel road if needed, we did have a flat and turn around but that was after I mounted the only spare on the tent trailer. Hate those damned impact wrenches! Twisted Evil

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Re: Wheel Torque

Post by Portagie1968 on 10/21/2011, 4:40 am

I believe it says 100 foot pounds on mine. Works fine.

Bill - Just like we do it in the military.

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Re: Wheel Torque

Post by jsk on 10/23/2011, 4:00 am

I torque to 110. But here is a concern/question. When we bought our unit in March 1st thing we did was new tires. When they were taking lug nuts off one broke off in the cap of the lug nut looked cross=threaded from factory. Remaining stud was long enough for a replacement lug nut. Last month I took tires off to check bearings and another stud broke in half. During the summer I ordered spare lug nuts from CW and local rv dealer. The shaft was to small on both to press in even though size was the same. Where can you get replacement studs? I did not pull without all studs - I took them off of the replacement axles Lippert sent which will be put on over the winter.

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Re: Wheel Torque

Post by volfirefighter on 10/23/2011, 5:55 am

I too have had a simular problbem and finding replacements where I live wasn't easy. I found at a bolt supply shop in Kelowna. Being that we have axles made in China, the studs are of a strange size apparently. I had one that broke, and another that would spin and not let the bolt tighten. The spinning one came from the factory like that and I guess it was easier for them to overlook it than replace it and it wasn't tight at all when I received my trailer.

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