Cordless Drill

Like some on this forum I would like to use my electric cordless drill to operate the rear stabilizer jacks. My ex-drill (expired) was a 21 volt Kawasaki drill which did not have the torque. Considering this drill is now dead what drill can I purchase which does have the ooomph?

I am looking at a Makita or a Bosch but am open to suggestions. I need to know that it can do the job and not just a guess. Please include model numbers (and price).

thanks, Kim

DeWalt is a great drill, I have a 12 volt one and use it all the time for everything.

A better option is a cordless impact wrench if its used primarily to run your jacks up and down. A cheap one will work just fine.

I am a blue collar worker and have used them all at one point or another...

You are on the right track with makita... I have the 18v litheum ion battery version... it has a two speed gear box and a metal chuck...

One thing I have found out about Makita is that compared to dewalt and bosh, Makita is by far the cheapest to rebuild down the road... I just put a new motor in one of my Makita's. it was about 40 dollars... I had a dewalt rebuilt years back for almost 200...

If your not using it every day it should almost last for ever...I have drilled 2" holes through 8'' house sills with mine when i'm to lazy to run a cord so it DEFINATELY has the tourque and battery life for your needs.

I use 18v makita daily and it has surpassed Dewalt in every way for the last 4 years.

I'm not a makita rep but I want you to be happy with what you buy...

I bought the entire Makita kit, so as far as cost mine was rather exspensive 600 bucks if I remember right but that was for four tools and four batteries...

I have a 12 volt dewalt I keep in the camper for this, be careful of using an impact though. There is a sticker on my stabilizers that states using an impact could cause damage and void the warranty.

Kim wrote: My ex-drill (expired) was a 21 volt Kawasaki drill which did not have the torque.
thanks, Kim

Kim,
It didn't have the torque to do what?

You only need to get the rear stabilizers out and down. What we do is, lower the landing gear just shy of level, then lower the rear stabilizers to the ground. Then lower the landing gear that extra little bit to level out, putting pressure on the rear stabilizers.

A 12V drill will work to do this, saving you lots of money.

I have a 18 volt cordless I Dewalt I use all the time. Actually I use it a lot on other things also. Watch out for that sucker. It almost knock me out once. Clocked me good.

I have a 18v Milwaukee drill that I have used ever since we got the WC six years ago, works just fine, use the same routine as Tom.

oldelmer1 wrote:

Kim wrote: My ex-drill (expired) was a 21 volt Kawasaki drill which did not have the torque.
thanks, Kim

Kim,
It didn't have the torque to do what?

You only need to get the rear stabilizers out and down. What we do is, lower the landing gear just shy of level, then lower the rear stabilizers to the ground. Then lower the landing gear that extra little bit to level out, putting pressure on the rear stabilizers.

A 12V drill will work to do this, saving you lots of money.

Unless you have a trailer like mine. Need to set the cordless on 5 and down the curbside down until it clicks. Then U take a ratchet and add another 2 turns plus a little after contact. Then we take the cordless and put the other one down until it clicks. Then U turn it 1/2 turn after contact. Then we are almost as level in the back as we are the front. Because of all the weight on the curbside we is a little low. Over the years I have wondered if I should take a real hard look at the springs.

Scruffy uses a Black & Decker. Inexpensive, and works great! Nothing complicated, he does what Tom does also.

Tater

driverguy wrote:A better option is a cordless impact wrench if its used primarily to run your jacks up and down. A cheap one will work just fine.

I agree..........best use a impact driver and you can get cheap ones at Harbour Freight.. course I dont need one now, that I have the auto leveler.....

oldelmer1 wrote:

Kim wrote: My ex-drill (expired) was a 21 volt Kawasaki drill which did not have the torque.
thanks, Kim

Kim,
It didn't have the torque to do what?

You only need to get the rear stabilizers out and down. What we do is, lower the landing gear just shy of level, then lower the rear stabilizers to the ground. Then lower the landing gear that extra little bit to level out, putting pressure on the rear stabilizers.

A 12V drill will work to do this, saving you lots of money.

It did not have enough torque to turn the screw either up or down. It would groan and stop after perhaps one or two revolutions. My stabilzers turn stiffly but are doable with a hand crank...the Kawasaki wasn't up to the task though. Yes, they are greased and only 1 year old so age and wear aren't a factor. I just need a more capable drill. The Kawasaki is simply too light duty for what I need.

Thanks

WD 40. Always have a can handy.

What Portagie said. Gotta loosen up those big screws and keep them lubed.

I've had an 18V Ryobi that I bought at Home Cheapo 6 years ago that works just great. I also use that for most cordless drill jobs around the house too.

Well I needed a new cordless drill anyway because the Kawasaki died.

As it turns out, a local tool store has a 3-day special on this weekend so I went there this afternoon and bought a quality 2-tool 18-volt Makita combo kit. It came with a 1330 in/lbs (110 ft/lbs) impact driver and a 450 in/lbs hammer driver-drill. Both are plenty strong enough so I will leave the impact in the RV during the season and use the drill at home. The impact driver will also help change tires while on the road.

For those interested, it came with two 3.0Ah Li-Ion batteries and a free choice on a 3rd tool (I took a circular saw). I also talked the salesman into throwing in a free $20 Makita LED flashlight which uses the same 18-volt battery. After a $50 instant rebate it clocked up $350 on the register.

Scruffy and Tater wrote:Scruffy uses a Black & Decker. Inexpensive, and works great! Nothing complicated, he does what Tom does also.

Tater

DITTO

I've also got an 18V Dewalt...works great! Got the socket at CW.

TC

I just use a 3/4 socket with an adapter.

Wow, am I the only one left that lowers the rear jacks by hand? I have considered using a drill but I just don't need something else to carry around and worry about. To each is own.

Yep. Doing it by hand is the healthy way.

At first, Scruffy just cranked them up and down by hand; but because of a health issue that weakened him a lot, he decided the drill was the way to go, since it was stronger than him. Now he's strong again, he still likes using the drill.... but, it wouldn't be a major hardship if he forgot and left it at home. Our rear jacks are easy to reach with that long crank.

Tater

maxum1989 wrote:Wow, am I the only one left that lowers the rear jacks by hand? I have considered using a drill but I just don't need something else to carry around and worry about. To each is own.

Nope, we do it that way too. I do have a Porter Cable 18V Lithium Ion we could use but so far have not felt motivated to buy the socket and holder I would need.

I have the 18 volt drill, but seldom use it, unless it is raining. The hand crank is fast, and it does not use batteries.

We that use the electric devises must be Lazy or very bright.

I use a craftman 18 volt. works good,had it a long time, inexpensive.

I have a couple older 14.4v Porter Cable drills. I've gone thru several sets of batteries, but the drills keep on going. Like oldelmer1, I let the landing gear do the heavy work.

Update on the 18-volt Makita LXT211 combo kit:

It comes with 1 hammer/drill, 1 impact drill, 2 3.0 Ah/hr batteries, 1 smart charger.

The ergonomics on both drill drivers are very comfortable for gripping (especially those who do not have large hands).
Both drill driver and impact driver are well constructed for durability and abuse.

The impact driver is awesome. With 110 ft/lbs of torque it absolutely ripped off the lug nuts on my wife's Honda Civic. It was like 2 seconds and then free spun leaving me to believe I had stripped something. I pulled the driver back to see what was wrong and lo and behold it had the lug nut off. No effort whatsoever! So I put the lug nut back on with the driver and when it bogged down tight I checked it with my torque wrench set at 100 ft/lbs and it clicked confirmation that it was at least that much. I will grant that it should always be final checked with a torque wrench. But, this one test seemed perfect and if you're on the side of the road without a torque wrench (who really carries one with them?) I would be confident carrying on.

The impact driver was so strong that it actually raised the trailer on my test stabilizer.

The only problem I encountered today is finding that my impact socket was so snug to the Wildcat's wheel lug opening that it would not fit in 3 of 6 without pounding. So I will probably be using a regular socket because it is just enough thinner that it fits better.

My final comment is that you should use a deep socket on the rear stabilizers because of the stabilizers long nut. A shorter socket only grips 2/3 of its length.

I use a 18V lithium Ryobi from Home Depot for about 3 years now. Never a problem. Home Depot also sell Rigid which has a lifetime warranty, even on batteries.