Airconditioner input voltage?

Anyone know what the minimum voltage is for running the air? I understand the compressor might be damaged if the air is run at low voltages. I was wondering what that voltage might be??

Good Question.

Not sure either, but I have seen voltages at campgrounds from 98 to 103. That is one reason why I installed the autoformer.
According to this voltage meter http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/ac-voltage-meter/29375 everything below 113 is bad.

An internet search found that Coleman RV A/C units require a minimum of 103.5v to operate properly. Low voltage on any a/c appliance causes higher than normal amp draw and can cause damage to the motor and or compressor. I would assume that Dometic A/C units are pretty close to the same.

Low voltage scares me. I have a dedicated line on the outside of my house and I use two extension cords to the trailer cord. My voltage reads:117volts with the air off(everything off) and 106volts with the air( just the air on). I think the two extension cords are 50ft and 12 gauge.. do you think it is safe running the air at 106volts?

Duke wrote:Low voltage scares me. I have a dedicated line on the outside of my house and I use two extension cords to the trailer cord. My voltage reads:117volts with the air off(everything off) and 106volts with the air( just the air on). I think the two extension cords are 50ft and 12 gauge.. do you think it is safe running the air at 106volts?

I think your problem here is the 50' run with a light extension cord, the plug ends and whatever adapter your using to connect to your trailer cord are most likely rated @ 15 amps or less, even though you have 2 cords your weak link are the plug ends. You should just get 1 30 amp rated cord to be safe, and also change out your outlet to 30 amp. Also check out your voltage when you start up the A/C. it may be even lower than 106v

I bought a extension cord that was built for an RV. Anyway burned up my AC. No more extension cords and AC anymore. I plan to install one of these in the very near future. Will install it right next to the power supply.

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-12v-Digital-Red-LED-700V-AC-Volt-Voltage-panel-meter-/370524545957?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5644fbe3a5

The plugs are a concern. If I run one cord to the trailer I will always have two plugs, one at the outlet and one at the trailer plug. As for changing the supply to 30amp. That doesn't look like an option, the wiring in my house is from the breaker box and I would imagine the wiring is for 20amp and not to support a 30amp run. I was thinking of running a single line of of 10gague from the outlet box to the trailer plug. The voltage readings were at startup. I do have a plug in meter in the trailer that I use monitor the voltage all the time. I don't want to ruin my a/c. Thanks for all the input.

Duke:
I ran a 10/3 with a ground from my garage 60 amp panel out to our Wildcat. Buried the last 10ft and came to a 4x4 post with a plug in box that matches my wildcat plug. I put a 30amp breaker in the panel box.
I know I have one extra wire in the 10/3 with ground that is dead-headed in the panel box and plug in box at the trailer. That way if I upgrade to an RV that has 50amp all I have to do is add a 50amp breaker and change out the plug at the RV.

Frank wrote:Duke:
I ran a 10/3 with a ground from my garage 60 amp panel out to our Wildcat. Buried the last 10ft and came to a 4x4 post with a plug in box that matches my wildcat plug. I put a 30amp breaker in the panel box.
I know I have one extra wire in the 10/3 with ground that is dead-headed in the panel box and plug in box at the trailer. That way if I upgrade to an RV that has 50amp all I have to do is add a 50amp breaker and change out the plug at the RV.

Thats the right way to do it.

I used 8 gauge to make sure but 10 will work. Great job.