Burned up fuse board....Help.

While working on various other projects on the Cat I walked in and could smell burned electrical. The fan on the converter was running so I was able to find it very quickly. The No. 3, 15 amp fuse was getting blacker by the second. No. 3 is for the interior lights, which were on for a while. I unplugged everything and then pulled the fuse. One of the blade receptacles pulled right out. While removing the fuse board I noticed that the Positive (red) from the converter pulled right out of its crimped blade. Would a poor connection on the positive cause the fuse to overheat? I'm hoping thats all it is. My converter is about 2 seasons old. I replaced the original with a Xantrex.
Any help is appreciated.

Treekiller,

Loose connections cause electrical resistance, which equals heat. In our trailers this is often caused by the vibrations of the road when we travel. I recommend checking all the lugs (hot lead, common lead and ground) on the 120V side and the black and red leads on the DC side. They may well have been tight when they left the factory, but over time they can loosen. I almost lost my old Trailharbor 28RKLS to a fire that way.

Thanks. That's what I was thinking but wanted to check. Nearly all of the smaller lugs were not as tight as they should have been. I am wondering if they make an electrical grade Loc-Tite product?

Something else for Scruffy to check..... it could save us a lot of grief.

Treekiller - One thing I have used is Black Silicone Adhesive sealant. It is silicone which makes it electrical friendly and a little messy and it is an Adhesive. Once dry almost impossible to come lose but because it is a silicone it does NOT lock the threads. Do NOT need an impact screw driver to take it apart. Same kind thing with Rector Seal and Galvanized pipe. Stops the leak and stops the pipe thread freeze and rust.