Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
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Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by Mopar_Earl on 5/1/2011, 5:09 pm
My water tank was sagging badly due to no support under that tank. It sagged so badly that it pushed and stretched the underbelly down. It sagged so badly that I couldn't use all the water.
Also I found the fill hose below the tank connection acting as a water trap causing venting issues as well as holding water till it's all nasty. The hose had water in it since Oct.
I bought a new tank while in Indiana from Forest River. Was only 114 and no shipping since I picked it up. I didn't know if the tank could be saved or not so I got a replacement. The old tank could of been reused once I took it apart. I'll keep the old tank and see if I can fit it elsewhere to double my water capacity.
I pulled the bolt in angle iron out and the old tank. I cut some 1/2" plywood (I'd use 3/4" if I had to do it again) and used that under the tank for support. I also added an angle on the connection end of the tank for some more support. Another mistake I made was I notched the angle for the tank supply connection way too much and it really weakened the angle.
While I was at it, I ran 1/2" vent hose up to the water fill were it should of been. No more plugging off the vent to stop water spillage. That was a major task. My fill is on one side of a floor joist and the tank connections on the other side. They notched the floor joist for the fill hose and I had to work and work and work to get that hose fished through the floor, into the notch with the fill hose and on out to the tank. My one hand is all cut up from screws and or nails hidden inside the flooring.
I found the fill hose to the tank had been leaking. They left a shipping plug in the spare hole finger tight and leaking. Also the supply connection was only finger tight.
Note, Forest River says heated water tank and underbelly. Well there are no furnace ducts at the rear of the trailer at or by the water tank or galley tank. Either they're fool of it or they didn't cut and install the vents or they mounted one in the center of the underbelly where I wasn't working. But they state heated water tank and underbelly. I was expecting a vent right near the water tank. The furnace is above the water tank.
Below you can see the sag, it should be flat and level with the angle iron. But it's a few inches below.
Below you can see the sag, it should be flat.
Below you can really see the bulge. It should be flat here. Note, the tank is empty, it sags more with water.
Below you can see how they dropped the fill hose below the connection which causes it to trap water like a sink trap. Cost too much money to cut the hose to the needed length I guess. So I shorten the hose and no more water trap.
Below you can see the plywood added. I also used short screws from the angle iron into the plywood to keep it from moving or the angle iron being pushed outward by the tank. Make sure you use short screws or you could have a leaky tank! You can also see the angle I added on the right.
Below you can see the connections. No more water trap in the fill hose and the vent hose now vents at the water fill as it should.
Below you can see the angle I added. I way over notched it for the supply connection and weaken the angle. I added extra screws to help it. Hate when I do dumb things like that. I was going to replace it but I didn't want to run to Lowes again and I wanted it done as I have a trip next weekend. Next time I'm at Lowes I'll get another angle and fix it at a later date.
Earl
Also I found the fill hose below the tank connection acting as a water trap causing venting issues as well as holding water till it's all nasty. The hose had water in it since Oct.
I bought a new tank while in Indiana from Forest River. Was only 114 and no shipping since I picked it up. I didn't know if the tank could be saved or not so I got a replacement. The old tank could of been reused once I took it apart. I'll keep the old tank and see if I can fit it elsewhere to double my water capacity.
I pulled the bolt in angle iron out and the old tank. I cut some 1/2" plywood (I'd use 3/4" if I had to do it again) and used that under the tank for support. I also added an angle on the connection end of the tank for some more support. Another mistake I made was I notched the angle for the tank supply connection way too much and it really weakened the angle.
While I was at it, I ran 1/2" vent hose up to the water fill were it should of been. No more plugging off the vent to stop water spillage. That was a major task. My fill is on one side of a floor joist and the tank connections on the other side. They notched the floor joist for the fill hose and I had to work and work and work to get that hose fished through the floor, into the notch with the fill hose and on out to the tank. My one hand is all cut up from screws and or nails hidden inside the flooring.
I found the fill hose to the tank had been leaking. They left a shipping plug in the spare hole finger tight and leaking. Also the supply connection was only finger tight.
Note, Forest River says heated water tank and underbelly. Well there are no furnace ducts at the rear of the trailer at or by the water tank or galley tank. Either they're fool of it or they didn't cut and install the vents or they mounted one in the center of the underbelly where I wasn't working. But they state heated water tank and underbelly. I was expecting a vent right near the water tank. The furnace is above the water tank.
Below you can see the sag, it should be flat and level with the angle iron. But it's a few inches below.
Below you can see the sag, it should be flat.
Below you can really see the bulge. It should be flat here. Note, the tank is empty, it sags more with water.
Below you can see how they dropped the fill hose below the connection which causes it to trap water like a sink trap. Cost too much money to cut the hose to the needed length I guess. So I shorten the hose and no more water trap.
Below you can see the plywood added. I also used short screws from the angle iron into the plywood to keep it from moving or the angle iron being pushed outward by the tank. Make sure you use short screws or you could have a leaky tank! You can also see the angle I added on the right.
Below you can see the connections. No more water trap in the fill hose and the vent hose now vents at the water fill as it should.
Below you can see the angle I added. I way over notched it for the supply connection and weaken the angle. I added extra screws to help it. Hate when I do dumb things like that. I was going to replace it but I didn't want to run to Lowes again and I wanted it done as I have a trip next weekend. Next time I'm at Lowes I'll get another angle and fix it at a later date.
Earl
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Re: Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by BobnPi on 5/1/2011, 6:39 pm
Now that is what I call detailed instructions if anyone wants to do that mod. Aluminium angle across the sides?
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Re: Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by Mopar_Earl on 5/1/2011, 7:49 pm
BobnPi wrote:Now that is what I call detailed instructions if anyone wants to do that mod. Aluminium angle across the sides?
The aluminium angle is just the one side. OEM had nothing on that side. The tank sits on the frame on the one side, on the bolt-in angle iron on front side, and on the rear frame cross member on the back side of the tank.
Earl
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Re: Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by oldelmer1 on 5/2/2011, 3:24 am
As always, GREAT JOB Earl.
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Re: Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by onetonford on 5/2/2011, 3:53 am
Mopar_Earl wrote:
Note, Forest River says heated water tank and underbelly. Well there are no furnace ducts at the rear of the trailer at or by the water tank or galley tank. Either they're fool of it or they didn't cut and install the vents or they mounted one in the center of the underbelly where I wasn't working. But they state heated water tank and underbelly. I was expecting a vent right near the water tank. The furnace is above the water tank.
Earl
Hey Earl here is a pic from my duct from the furnance looking toward the front of fifth wheel the screws are from the bedroom wall and the Duct that goes down in my approx. is between the black and gray on my unit.
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Re: Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by scottz on 5/4/2011, 6:45 pm
Good job.
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Re: Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by Carpe Diem on 5/5/2011, 2:22 am
Now if FR is only paying attention to these minor details that cause more work for the buyers....ohh what a happy world it would be!
NICE JOB!
NICE JOB!
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Re: Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by MountainMan on 5/5/2011, 11:12 am
Fine lookin' work Earl! 
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Re: Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by Erbsx4 on 5/5/2011, 3:39 pm
Nice work Earl... I think we will be doing this mod someday too.
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Re: Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by kwf904 on 5/6/2011, 12:57 am
Sheesh, all FR would have to do is suck up all the sawdust they leave in our rigs and make Fibreboard from it to use as a brace. Kills two birds with one stone. 
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Re: Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by Portagie1968 on 5/6/2011, 5:51 am
Very nice. I see you cut your belly cover. Was there a reason?
The metal T U used were did U find it.
The metal T U used were did U find it.
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Re: Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by onetonford on 5/6/2011, 8:37 am
Portagie1968 wrote:Very nice. I see you cut your belly cover. Was there a reason?
The metal T U used were did U find it.
Hey Portagie1968 I have seen that at Home Depot.
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Re: Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by Mopar_Earl on 5/6/2011, 12:13 pm
Portagie1968 wrote:Very nice. I see you cut your belly cover. Was there a reason?
The metal T U used were did U find it.
Had to cut the underbelly so I could get to the tank. Other wise I would of had to take it off from the front to the back and cut it where the holding tank drains come out as well. Was easier and faster to cut my way in.
The tee is Gator brand from Lowes. They are reuseable and work on PEX, copper and CPVC piping.
Earl
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Re: Fresh Water Tank Support Upgrade/Mod
by Portagie1968 on 5/6/2011, 12:33 pm
Surprised at your answer. I can take the under belly of either way and mine is already cut. Thank you for the info on the tee. Still surprised to see you have red tubing. Mine is all white
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