WINTERIZING

Got 2 trips in this year with the new cat. My question is winterizing, can you dump 3-4 gallons of antifreeze in the fresh water tank and turn on the water pump?

I would not do that. Get the winterizing kit for the pumping antifreeze in to the system Pump Converter and if you do not have the Hot water tank by-pass kit
If you have an installed water filter I woud install a By-pass Kit on the water filter.
Check out the following:
http://www.wildcatcamperforum.com/maintenance-repairs-trouble-shooting-service-warranty-f12/hot-water-tank-bypass-where-is-it-t3323.htm?highlight=water+filter+by+pass

I would discourage as well. The RV Antifreeze is relatively harmless, but does have an odor and taste. Letting that set in the tank over the winter into the spring would leave plenty of residual in the fresh water. Plus, 4 gallons of antifreeze (while inexpensive) is 3 more than I use in the first place.

Blow the lines out, start at the high point faucet (on my 32qbbs it's the outside shower) and work down to the low point. I don't have that winterizing kit Frank suggested so I just disconnect the pump and feed that line into the antifreeze bottle. run the pump for a couple seconds to suck 1/2 to 3/4 of the bottle (just enough to see it in one faucet line) and i'm done.

I use the rest in the drain traps. Leave the faucets open when it's all said and done and I've never had a problem!

BUT, i like where your head is at! I'm all for thinking out of the box!!!!!

dragynj: Why do you leave your faucets open? Just wondering what that would do?

Frank wrote:I would not do that. Get the winterizing kit for the pumping antifreeze in to the system Pump Converter and if you do not have the Hot water tank by-pass kit
If you have an installed water filter I woud install a By-pass Kit on the water filter.
Check out the following:
http://www.wildcatcamperforum.com/maintenance-repairs-trouble-shooting-service-warranty-f12/hot-water-tank-bypass-where-is-it-t3323.htm?highlight=water+filter+by+pass

Add this to be looked at: http://www.wildcatcamperforum.com/diy-improvements-f3/water-filter-bypass-t85.htm?highlight=bypass

This is what RV Antifreeze did to my Water Filter Housing
The one on the left is the new replacement Filter Housing.

I winterize my cat using the compressed air method and do not put any antifreeze at all in my water lines and never in the fresh tank. I drain the water heater by removing the anode, drain the water lines at the low point drains, remove the water filter, and then blow out the water lines with 40 psi of air. I open each faucet and the outside shower to make sure all the water is out. I pour two cups of antifreeze down each drain to prevent the traps and tank valves from freezing. I also pour antifreeze and water down the toilet, this has prevented my black tank valve from freezing as well.

This method has some added perks when your ready to open your unit back up all you need to do is replace the anode, water filter, and line caps and charge the water system, flush for just a few minutes and your good.

Ditto here Rich5117. Thats all I ever do.Drain at low point drains.Hit the lines with about 30psi of air til they blow dry from high point down. Fill my traps with Rv antifreeze and put some in my waste tanks.Take out anode rod ETC... We have mild winters here in Sweet Home Alabama but we had some single digits and low teens last year for a bit but was all good come spring. Alot easier come camping season too..Never use fresh water tank. I just keep it drained. Works for me.

I do the same as BamaWildcat and Rich5117. The best part about this way of doing it is I can go winter camping and not do anything to the water system until I actually get to the campsite. That way, if there is too much snow when I plan on leaving, I can just delay departure until the roads are safe and the trailer is still winterized.

jamesb wrote:dragynj: Why do you leave your faucets open? Just wondering what that would do?

Not sure I guess! Just was told to do that 6yrs or so ago when I did my first 5er. Made sense to me at the time, give any remaining water room to expand?

I blow out and put in some antifreeze. 2 gals. do the whole camper. I installed a by-pass on the filter as well and use the pump converter kit.

Frank, I've been using RV anitfreeze for years and have never had that happen to my housing.

DON R wrote:Got 2 trips in this year with the new cat. My question is winterizing, can you dump 3-4 gallons of antifreeze in the fresh water tank and turn on the water pump?

Don’t put antifreeze in your fresh water tank. It’s not a good idea. Besides it would probably take at least 4 gallons of antifreeze just for the pump to start to pick it up and more to actually fill all the water lines.

Here’s a photo of all you will need to winterize your trailer. The hose and connector will cost you less than 5 bucks at any RV parts store.



Removed the water filter from the housing and empty it (be sure not to lose the rubber gasket in the top), drain the water from the water heater and put it in bypass (Wildcats come with the bypass valves installed). It helps to open a faucet when draining water from the system. Once the water is drained from the trailer’s plumbing system you’re ready to put in the antifreeze.

Disconnect the line on the water pump that comes from your fresh water tank. Connect a line like the one in the photo to the pump and put the other end in a bottle of RV antifreeze. Have someone turn on the water pump and then open faucets one at a time until the pink antifreeze comes through. Be sure to do all the lines including those to the outside shower. The whole process shouldn’t use more than 3 gallons of antifreeze at the most. When you’re done reconnect the pickup line from the fresh water tank to the pump.

My advice is to use the antifreeze method described above.

I got by with just low point drains and blowing out the lines for a couple years until one cold winter. I had to replace a cracked toilet valve the next season because it trapped water, froze, expanded .... Of course it also soaked the carpet and floor for a few days and we were hundreds of miles from home on a camping trip before we noticed it.

Its actually quicker for me to use the antifreeze method with the pump kit and much, much better protection from freezing.

MountianMan I have to ask a question. Did you step on the foot valve and blow out the toilet valve? When I do ours I would estimate well over a cup of water is expelled. That would definitely be enough to blow a valve.

Ummm. Good thing you brought that up Rich5117. I forgot to mention that in my post. I always open the toilet valve and blow it out also. I'm not discouraging anyone from using antifreeze in their system. If you feel more comfortable with the antifreeze way then thats what I would do. I've just had good luck the way I do it AND we do have very mild winters here. But it has been tested with a couple of cold snaps for a few days. I also thoroughly blow the lines out to the point of overkill I guess you could say. We can camp up til Jan. around here before we are done for the winter and flushing the system would get old for me between cold snaps. Like I said I would do what ever made me feel comfortable.

Mopar_Earl wrote:Frank,
How long did it take to stain your water filter housing? Mine is on the 3rd winterizing and no staining yet.



Earl

Quote by Richard Mondavi on Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:03 am

Frank, I've been using RV anitfreeze for years and have never had that happen to my housing.

Earl and Richard That happen the first winter we owned it. 2005 Winter. It was W__M__T where I purchased that Antifreeze.

After that I started just blowing out the fresh water lines with 40psi air and adding RV Antifreeze in the sink traps. I do pump a small amount of antifreeze into the fresh water pump only. I drain all tanks and Hot Water heater . I do this because the area I live in does not have harsh winters like up North.

Rich5117 wrote:MountianMan I have to ask a question. Did you step on the foot valve and blow out the toilet valve? When I do ours I would estimate well over a cup of water is expelled. That would definitely be enough to blow a valve.

Yes I did. I spent more time on the toilet valve than any other line. I knew from previous years it was the hardest to get all the water out.

As I said above - My advice is to use the antifreeze method described above.

I used to be one who was totally convinced antifreeze was not needed. I learned the hard way. I hope you never learn the same lesson I did.

Thirty years ago when we started camping I just blew the lines out. The second spring we had the TT I heard the awful sound of water when I was getting it ready in spring. It was a 1967 Franklin 18'er. That thing was built like a tank. Had to cut the glavanized sheet underbelly out and fix the split copper pipe. After that I started using antifreeze and haven't had a problem since. The old saying " An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure " sure held true. Two gallons of antifreeze is cheap insurance.

KH

Thanks MountianMan, I too have good luck doing the air method, but knowing my luck I'd keep my fingers and toes crossed even if I used antifreeze

Winterized my Cat, only because I was fitting a new pre filter for the pump, So I thought I would give it a bit of the air line treatment. Took about 15 mins at 20 psi to get the pipes clear, but I think this is easier than doing the job with antifreeze, (booked to go away 2/12/10). Today's weather forecast for later part of the week is temp -2Deg and the possibility of up to 6 inches of snow. So I think I have made a smart move.
Sean