Water Filter...again

Howdy y'all. I've seen lots of the water filter subjects, but none dealing with this, so here goes. How in the world do you loosen the dang casing for the water filter? I have the little tool (wrench thingy) that came with my Wildcat, and have tried to loosen that bugger up to the point where I start to hear the mounting stuff start to pop and crack. I'm afraid I'm going to bust the whole thing! Does anyone have any ideas to help loosen the casing? You know...normally I'd squirt a little WD-40 or Liquid Wrench on something like that, but uh...this is a water filter, and it's all plastic. Soooo, any ideas would be welcomed.
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It sounds like it has been over tightened, I assume that you have turned the pump off as this would increase pressure in the filter making it hard to loosen. If I was you I would, release water pressure, remove pipe work, and then remove filter housing to a bench to see if it could come apart easier. There should be an O ring or sealing rubber in the top that compresses lightly when tightened. It should not be over tightened (IE hand tight then about 1/2 turn with the wrench). I hope this is helpful

I always apply a little vaseline to the seals. I actually keep a small tube of the vaseline lip balm that I use just for this. Also use it on my home water filter. It's safe and keeps the rubber from binding.
KH

I do the same as KHUBER does,but first you have to get it off.I say take it off the camper also.So you don't rip the mounting screws out like I did.

I tore mine loose from the luan panel it was screwed to in order to get mine off. After that I installed a heavy board that spanned about 2' and mounted the filter to that. It's rigid now!

Good ideas all. It is definitely tight! Yeah, it will definitely be getting lubed prior to reinstallation. And yeah, I'm thinking reinforcing the mounting is a good idea too. Thanks guys!

We too lube ours with a small tube of Vaseline. No problems since starting that.

Okay, finally got out to work on this. Y'all aren't gonna believe this. I loosened the fitting going into the trailer (figured I'd have less water leaking on that side), and put the wrench on the casing, and holy cow. I barely had to use any strength at all. It just came right off. I understand how pressure works and all, but that is a bit ridiculous. Anyway, got the filter changed and put back and all is well!

I've never ran a filter on our rig since we purchased it last summer. I've read (on here) it has a serious impact on the water pressure. What has everyone else experienced? Maybe I need to get one!

I have run mine with out a filter and you can tell the difference,but I don't think it's that dramatic.

dragynj,

I swapped out the factory filter after the first year for a 10micron one, IIRC. It helped because the factory was a 1 or 2micron unit, again IIRC. I guess it depends on what size of debris you expect. At the wellhead where our water comes from, when parked for the summer, I've seen smallish leaves in their filter!

The biggest gain was to go around to all the faucets, and the shower head, and pull the little water restricter out. On one, I think it was the shower head, I couldn't get it out. A shot with the old battery powered drill with an appropriate bit resolved that problem.

We don't dry camp. Well we were kinda forced into it for a few days here and there but with a full water tank I don't worry to much.

I find no diff between an outside filter and the filter on my trailer. The water filter housing O ring should be lubed with plumbers grease. Actually called waterproof grease. Found at HD, Lowes, and Orchard. Use it on any oil rings installed in water. Housing should be installed hand tight and use of wrench should only be done if it happens to leak. Turn very little. Found out this the hard way. Also if you look back on other water filter posts I posted pictures and instructions for installing a drain cock. Makes life a lot easier. Open faucet and crack the drain for end of year draining also. I change my filter at the beginning of each season. Get them from Wal Mart. Type is on the other post also.

There is a food grade lubricant made for o-rings in potable water and food equipment service. I can't remember the name or brand, but I have used it in the past. If I can find it again, I'll post a picture.

I think that is what I am using.

it' can be purchased at any dive shop for a few bucks lasts a lifetime and is made for potable and air breathing system Orings. Vasleline should not be used in these situations.