Going Solar

You're going to need the weekend for sure.

Use the flexible wire used on welders for the run between the batteries and inverters. I got some 2-0 at my local welding shop. It's real bendy. The stuff at home depot is too stiff.

Are you installing a transfer switch (ATS) or are you going with a dedicated receptacle served only by the inverter. I put in a transfer switch after the fuse panel so all the outlets in the trailer could be on it when dry camping (less the refer, AC and converter). I had to add a 4 space sub panel (<$10 at lowes) so I the ATS would only switch the microwave, GP outlets & GFI outlets). The refer was originally wired to the GP outlet circuit so I had to break it out in the main fuse box.

Here a Sketch of my layout.....I have the 5500W Generator in the mix too.

Spent Memorial Day weekend and yesterday working. Wired, took apart, rewired. Finally got a hold of the place that I bought it from and after an hour on the phone came to the conclusion that the inverter had a short in it. That takes some pressure off of me. I was trying to get it don asap because my local government is standing by to fine me $250.00/day for having the WC here. (I got away with it for two years) The solar panels are working great keeping the batteries charged. Trying to get it done because we leave for Alaska next weekend. Not in the WC. We are renting a motor home in Anchorage. When we get back we load up the WC for our summer excursion. Tough life, but someone has to do it.

We normally run our generators 2 hrs A.M and 2 hrs P.M. daily to keep our batteries bulk charged. If we were consuming power (except the AC of course) just as we would on average if we were using shore power (not conservatively), how many panels, or watts, would we need to keep from running the generators every day (Ball park figure), especially if we're running the furnace during one of our mountain trips? Is there an easy way to calculate this?

TC

We bought ours at http://rvsolarelectric.com/ They were great to deal with and I would recommend them to anyone. I had a problem on Saturday afternoon and they spent an hour with me to straighten it out. The final was that the inverter was defective. They were going to send me a new one out this morning. I couldn't leave well enough alone and got the problem fixed yesterday, Sunday morning.



We brought the wire from the two solar panels down through the bathroom fan and in through the ceiling. We always keep it open a little anyway (no comments) to vent moisture and heat.


This is the remote inverter panel. It controls charging, temperature, etc. from inside


This is the output from the panels during overcast sky. It was about to storm.


Mounting location on wall.


The inverter doesn't take up a lot of space.


Switching from one 12V battery to 4 - 6V batteries does take up some space and does add weight.


I have everything hooked up to the inverter with the exception of the a/c. When I get some free time I will have to rewire the water heater, it is hooked up on the same line with the microwave. The inverter starts and operates the microwave with no problem at all. You can watch the battery drain on the meters, but it is not as bad as I had expected. You really do get to see the "phantom" loads from such things as the turned off TV's coffee pot etc. It makes you aware of waste. The gentleman at RV Solar Electric said that I will have plenty of power available especially since I had changed out all of my light fixtures to LED fixtures, more light, no heat, less power (sounds like a Papa John's commercial).

The next project is going off the grid with a new house. We are going to use a combination of solar/wind with battery storage (13,000 watt AGM) and a Perkins diesel generator for those days when we run out or the rare occasions to run the A/C when needed.

Looks good. I got my solar kit from them too.

You have a lot of room for batteries up front. I had to fight the big generator.

What size inverter is that? Mine is 2K; I never really considered running the microwave off it; didn't think it would work.

Sweet! I used the same battery box for my trailer.

Earl

Mine is a 2K full sine wave and it has no problem at all. Don't forget that while the microwave is running, the solar is pumping in about 7 amps. Earl: you were the one in another post that had the link to them. They are heavy to put in place when you have both batteries in them. Thought the wife was going to pop seam when we lifted them in. The battery caps are worth the investment (and they look cool)

robertz675 wrote:Mine is a 2K full sine wave and it has no problem at all. Don't forget that while the microwave is running, the solar is pumping in about 7 amps. Earl: you were the one in another post that had the link to them. They are heavy to put in place when you have both batteries in them. Thought the wife was going to pop seam when we lifted them in. The battery caps are worth the investment (and they look cool)

I put my battery box in and than added each battery. I also have the special carrying/lifting strap for golf cart batteries. Sweet install. Think you'll post pics of the solar panels and where you mounted them?

Earl

Once I get to courage to go back on the roof and if the sun cooperates I'll get pictures of them.

We are starting our second week of dry camping and the solar is working out great. I turn the generator on only if I want the a/c. Otherwise, the panels keep the batteries pretty well charged. When you use the microwave, it drains the batteries quickly. I never would have thought it would.

Thanks for the update Bob. Some of us are deeply jealous!!

TC

There seems to be several solar threads. I just finished installing my one panel (135 watt) system.

http://www.wildcatcamperforum.com/high-tech-center-f16/adding-solar-t313.htm#28860

http://www.wind-sun.com/ForumVB/showthread.php?t=8912

bighornram wrote:There seems to be several solar threads. I just finished installing my one panel (135 watt) system.

http://www.wildcatcamperforum.com/high-tech-center-f16/adding-solar-t313.htm#28860

http://www.wind-sun.com/ForumVB/showthread.php?t=8912

Did you hook the output of your solar charger to the batteries or battery leads at the C/C. Which solar charger did you use. I have a Sun but wonder about it.

Portagie1968 wrote:

bighornram wrote:There seems to be several solar threads. I just finished installing my one panel (135 watt) system.

http://www.wildcatcamperforum.com/high-tech-center-f16/adding-solar-t313.htm#28860

http://www.wind-sun.com/ForumVB/showthread.php?t=8912

Did you hook the output of your solar charger to the batteries or battery leads at the C/C. Which solar charger did you use. I have a Sun but wonder about it.

Portagie1968, I used a Morningstar controller connected everything directly to the batteries. My Solar/Battery Wiring Image

Um, could you guys speak English please???

bighornram wrote:

Portagie1968 wrote:

bighornram wrote:There seems to be several solar threads. I just finished installing my one panel (135 watt) system.

http://www.wildcatcamperforum.com/high-tech-center-f16/adding-solar-t313.htm#28860

http://www.wind-sun.com/ForumVB/showthread.php?t=8912

Did you hook the output of your solar charger to the batteries or battery leads at the C/C. Which solar charger did you use. I have a Sun but wonder about it.

Portagie1968,
I used a Morningstar controller connected everything directly to the batteries. My Solar/Battery Wiring Image

I might change that Sun controller, I do not know. Do you have a monitor panel some where? Anyway I am going to do the same. I emailed the people who sold me my solar panel and asked them the same question. The Techs with all the specs. According to them you can connect the controller to the batteries wires at the C/C but it will never work as efficient because the flow of voltage was designed to flow from the panel thru the controller to the battery terminals directly. So with the problems I am having I am changing mine. FYI. I made my solar portable. My solar panel plugs into the back of the trailer (personal pref). My C/C is also located back there. I was trying to get away from running 8 gauge wire to the front but I am now. The wire is so large because of the trailer length and the 14 gauge wires on the Sun Controller. If I got rid of the Sun Controller I might be able to go to 10. The 10 amp, which I have, comes with leads you can not remove.

Portagie1968 wrote:The Techs with all the specs. According to them you can connect the controller to the batteries wires at the C/C but it will never work as efficient because the flow of voltage was designed to flow from the panel thru the controller to the battery terminals directly. So with the problems I am having I am changing mine.

I don't think doing a home run is going to change anything. The wires from the converter go to the battery terminals directly. Voltage doesn't flow, current does. So the voltage at the converter would be the same as at batteries for the small current the panels produces. If you had a 150A draw, that's a different story. There would be a drop depending on wire size. You'd want to be as close to the batteries as possible. I'd still start with the charge controller. It may be allowing the larger voltages to pass before clipping them. I know the output on the panel was 19-20V so if it lets it spike above 13-14 volts, I can see why your fluorescent lights freak out.

It has to do with feed back and were you are drawing your voltage from. According to them the solar voltage was to be drawn thru the battery to the rig. Why I do not know but I am about to find out. Thank you for the info. I am checking every option. The new controller I am looking at is a morningstar controller. In my price range.

Portagie1968 wrote:The new controller I am looking at is a morningstar controller. In my price range.

What controller do you have now and what one are you looking at getting?

bighornram wrote:

Portagie1968 wrote:The new controller I am looking at is a morningstar controller. In my price range.

What controller do you have now and what one are you looking at getting?

I have a Sun 10 Amp

Going to a MorningStar 10 Amp Controller.

I have a Sun 30 amp controller and have never had a problem with it. I would suggest you get a 30 amp controller.

kcnielsen wrote:I have a Sun 30 amp controller and have never had a problem with it. I would suggest you get a 30 amp controller.

Either that or the 10 from morningstar. Do not mess with the 10 from Sun. The leads are just to small and you can not remove them. Thank you for the reply.

For the record I have the Go Power 25 amp charger. It's the 2006 model that has a charge meter in addition to the led readout showing the voltage and current.

I figured I might add another 130W panel sometime in the future so I got this larger controller.

I will probably never add. I have an inboard generator that needs exercising.

This is one of my favorite threads on the forum. I'd love to incorporate some of the mods here in a future Wildcat...