Rear Trailer Hitch

I am looking to put a trailer hitch on the rear of my trailer for a bike rack and possibly pulling a trailer behind the 5er. I have seen how some of you have mounted the Hidden Hitch 82201 multi fit hitch using tube stock, but was wondering if anyone has welded this hitch right to the bottom of the I beam frame in front of the bumper mounts. Does anyone see any problems with doing it this way? Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks.

I had the dealer put mine on. They take it to a local welding shop to take care of it. I can shoot some photos tomorrow and post if you'd like. It's definetly welded, not the hidden hitch.

dragynj, could you send me those photos as well please. I'm looking into putting a hitch on as well.

I'll PM you my email address.

I'll take some pics and post them on this thread for all to see. No problems.

Got the photos taken today. Hope this helps!

The receiver hitch is welded to the bumber. Also, it appears that the welding shop added an additional piece of square tube, spanning the width of the 5er frame, directly behind the bumber. If you look close at the last picture this extra tube is actually a smaller tube fit into a larger square tube. The larger tube is 2" od and appears to be 1/8" material, couldn't get a good measurement with the bubble gum welding. Not sure why they went this route versus cutting one piece of tubing and spanning the whole width with one single piece of 2" tube. my bet is they had a couple scrap pieces laying around and saved some money in this job!!!!

This setup more than handled everything I threw at it. You can see in photo #4 (and my sig pic) I pulled Tandem with my 1850 Crestliner plenty of times with no issues what so ever. That was easily 150-200# tounge weight. Putting a bike rack in this set up should be a non issue.

Hope the pics help everyone. If you need to get a closer look at anything let me know and I will snap a few more.

It almost looks to me that they used 2 sizes of square tube with the smaller one slid into the larger one like a sleeve. Could they have done this deliberately so that it was a perfect fit frame to frame and then welded the 2 sizes of tube together where they fit?

I also beefed up my FR factory receiver hitch (rated 110# for bikes only) so that I can carry up to 300#. I carry a cargo rack with a generator and fuel cans on the back now no problem. I figure I am carrying approximately 250# when loaded.

My hitch shop bumped it up to 3 crossmembers (factory didn't weld the receiver to the bumper...it's too weak I suppose and my hitch shop avoided it too).

Thanks for the reply and the pictures dragynj. My bumper isn't held on by much, so I would be hesitant to attach the hitch to the bumper itself or the mounts. That's why I was thinking of welding the hitch to the bottom of the trailer frame and using a short extension to reach out to the rear of the bumper.

Mine is both bolted and welded. See my signature for link to photos.

Thanks Scottz, that is exactly what I want to do. You said it is bolted on also. Did you bolt it through the bottom flange of the I beam? I couldn't tell from your pics.

I had the local shop custom weld one on for me @ $250. he basically tied it into the frame in a "H" type pattern between and outside the I beams and it is definitely solid. It look like it is attached to the bumper, but it comes out just below it. Local dealer referred me to him and said he would stand behind it, which gave me some piece of mind. I haven't tried the bike rack, but tow a couple of different boats and I am getting an atv trailer for this summer. Here are a few pics of the set up.

driverguy wrote:Thanks Scottz, that is exactly what I want to do. You said it is bolted on also. Did you bolt it through the bottom flange of the I beam? I couldn't tell from your pics.

Yes, through the bottom beam; I think I used 1/2" bolts. It worked out nice because the bolts held everything in place while I welded it. Notice I had to re-locate my stabilizers. I also added the skid wheels under the lowest point of the hitch to keep from dragging.

The idea of adding a hitch to the rear of a Cat seems very good. However, I've been wondering is all states permit a pickup to pull two trailers like the photos above. We will be primarily in the eastern part of the country and I only see over the road truckers pulling double trailer. Anyone have an idea what is permitted? Thanks.

Joy & Alan wrote:The idea of adding a hitch to the rear of a Cat seems very good. However, I've been wondering is all states permit a pickup to pull two trailers like the photos above. We will be primarily in the eastern part of the country and I only see over the road truckers pulling double trailer. Anyone have an idea what is permitted? Thanks.

Someone on this site posted a link with what different states allow. There was alot of discrepancies though on how accurate the list was. Sounded like you would have to check with each state to find out what is allowed. I can tell you that Michigan allows double towing only if the lead trailer is a fifth wheel and a maximum length of 65 feet. Also residents of Michigan need a CDL class A with doubles endorsement or a recreational doubles endorsement on a regular license.

Pretty lax here. Can tow double up to 75 feet.

http://www.wildcatcamperforum.com/tow-vehicles-f10/double-towing-t1441.htm?highlight=double+tow

In Nevada it's 70' with a minimum Class C with the proper endorsements added (combination "R" and/or trailer greater than 10k "J"). The WC requires the "J" endorsement since it is at 11.6k GVWR. You can get both endorsements at the same time if you bring a tag trailer since it's the same written and skills test. Not sure about other states. You don't have to back the combination during the exam. They make you do that with the front trailer only. The on-the-road drive test loop is when the tag trailer come into the exam.

Thanks for the comments. Living around the Washington, DC area I could image what a backup that would occur if a person drove a double trailer rig (Cat and baot) around the beltway!

jetskier wrote:In Nevada it's 70' with a minimum Class C with the proper endorsements added (combination "R" and/or trailer greater than 10k "J"). The WC requires the "J" endorsement since it is at 11.6k GVWR. You can get both endorsements at the same time if you bring a tag trailer since it's the same written and skills test. Not sure about other states. You don't have to back the combination during the exam. They make you do that with the front trailer only. The on-the-road drive test loop is when the tag trailer come into the exam.

My "exam" was pulling it from Bismarck, ND to Lake Sakakawea (90 miles) and praying to GOD my boat was still there!!!!!

Even with my 6.0 gasser I could have (and did on occasion) get up to 70mph, but I kept it at 55ish most of the time. Pulls like a dream. I was still pretty obsessive compulsive about doing it. I would stop once or even twice on the trip just to check everything, but there was no need. Anyone who hasn't done it, don't worry. If I can do it ANYONE can do it!!!!

But, that was then and this is now. Boat was sold last October and we're in Washington now with different "tandem" laws. Missing my boat, but just glad to still have the WC.

Joy & Alan wrote:Thanks for the comments. Living around the Washington, DC area I could image what a backup that would occur if a person drove a double trailer rig (Cat and baot) around the beltway!

No problem, no different than a truck driver pulling a set of doubles. You don't even know it's back there. Been pulling my bikes behind wildcat for 3 years now. In Pa You have to have a class A CDL with D/T endorsement, front trailer has to be a 5th wheel. Per the Pa State Police. Just don't get into a situation where you have to back-up.