Front storage compartment

After setting up the camper last Friday I noticed a large gap (1/2" +) between the fiberglass and the front storage compartment sheet metal and frame. I always had a smaller gap there and sealed most of it off with silicone. I checked and saw that the fiberglass front was attached to the fiberglass backing (lauan?) by 3 small screws only about 1/4" long and the screws that hold the front door frame pushed against the sheet metal and therefore pulling the fiberglass away from the frame. I couldn't see the gap on the frame left and right because of the sealing foam they used at the factory. I plan on putting in a piece of 1/2" plywood about 4" wide and 70" long, remove the screws that hold the front door, drill all the way through the wood and the sheet metal in the camper and use 10-24 through bolts. I can push the gap shut with little effort, but I this will put some stress on the fiberglass (and that is why I want to use a filler piece). I will also use some spray foam and re-seal the compartment front. Here are some photos (you need look close to see the sheet metal edge and the wood backing of the fiberglass):

my screws kept popping out so i filled the gap with liquid nails and put the screw back in... hope it never has to come off.

I haven't looked at mine in a while, but I had a small gap that like you, I filled with silicone. I wonder what causes it to move.

The screws that held mine in place stripped out as well. I went a step farther and took the screws out for the front compartment door, drilled the hole through the sheet metal and installed screws and nylocks. This way the outside of the metal compartment door frame is bolted to the sheet metal. I made this mod over a year ago and no problems!

Right after we picked up our Cat new from the dealership, I found all the screws that were supposed to hold the front panel onto the front frame rail setting loose on the floor of our front cargo area. I thought it might have been a manufacturer oversight. However, after reading this thread I'm rethinking that notion.

TC

Mine has the same issue, My back compartment doors the inside paneling wall is coming loose on them i've got to fix them as well.

I put an extra battery in the front compartment, right after I purchased the WC, next to the included battery (gives me extra capacity when power not available). The next year, on my pre-trip inspection, I noticed the floor behind the batteries was sagging. The original screws were only screwed to the plywood. Any bouncing and they gradually tore loose. I redrilled holes, but not to the plywood, but through the steel support structure above. Put in driller screws and haven't had a worry since.

It's holding up nicely so far.

Today I finished repairing my compartment floor to front panel gap. My door frame was several inches above the metal flooring on my unit. So I cut some 1/2" plywood to 7" x 72". That ran from bottom of compartment door to the bottom of the front panel and from frame rail to frame rail. I used bolts and lock nuts through the lower door frame into the plywood and than used screws at the bottom of the front panel trim and into the plywood. Than screwed the floor to the plywood. I also put two coats of primer and flat black on the plywood since it hangs down where road spray can get on it. I finished up by using expanding foam to seal up the cracks.

The bolts and screws that I installed are the ones circled in black.

Thanks for the idea Shooter and Maxrock!


Earl

Since I have a Gen up front I hope I do not have this problem.

Earl, I guess they made a design change with the 2010 28RKBS. I looked at mine and the door is attached from the inside all along the bottom, sides and top.