Eliminating cold water burst from shower head

I thought this topic deserves its own post, so I am moving all the comments to this new post.

Many of us have complained about the burst of cold water from this shower after turning it off for a few minutes while lathering up. I found the following info, with pictures:

http://www.motorhomemagazine.com/boards/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/21981346.cfm

After doing more reading in the above post, someone suggests just using one of these:

http://www.dyersonline.com/Products/Camco-12-Check-Valve__86-8153.aspx

I'm thinking all we have to do is install this check valve on the hot water line at the back of the faucet, inside the little door on the outside.

Re: Eliminating cold water burst from shower head
by oldelmer1 on Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:47 am

I have replaced my faucet in the shower, (don't ask ) and it does the same thing, cold blast when turning on the water again. I also replaced the shower head with the Oxygenics. With this shower head, you have to leave a little stream coming out cause it wont shut off all the way, but still cold water.

Oh, and my outside shower is closed. Does Rod think we all would just miss water running down the side of our camper, and then do nothing about it?



Re: Eliminating cold water burst from shower head
by MaxRock on Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:41 am
With respect to the cold water, we have a different issue. The last few camping trips, when I turn the water back on at the shower head, the water comes out extremely hot! I've checked the outside shower and it is off, so I do agree it probably has something to do with the mixing at that faucet. While it feels nice the first second or two, the water gets really hot before it starts to cool. I know, weird, but it is what it is!



Re: Eliminating cold water burst from shower head
by MaxRock on Wed Jan 21, 2009 3:53 pm

oldelmer1 wrote:
Does Rod think we all would just miss water running down the side of our camper, and then do nothing about it?
Tom, that comment made me laugh! I don't know why my shower started doing the blast of hot water. I thought all along it was the water sitting in the pipe had just cooled off and when you started circulating the water again, it would heat up once you got "new" water from the HWH. Oh well...what do I know...except my outside shower does not have water running down the side of the camper!



Re: Eliminating cold water burst from shower head
by retired2 on Wed Jan 21, 2009 4:47 pm
Tom

I think Rod's comment was about having shut off the outside shower head while leaving the shower faucets on. (Still a good eay to have a wet wall). I have bothe the shower head and faucets turned off on the outside shower.

If a new shower head, and new faucets won't stop the cold water blasts, what is the next step? On occassion we also get cold water blasts while the shower head is open. I can get prepared for the cold blast when I know it is coming, but when it is out of the blue--WOW. Generally we just let the shower head remain open and let the hot water continue to run. This is ok unless you are dry camped and have limited water and grey water storage.



Re: Eliminating cold water burst from shower head
by Scruffy and Tater on Tue Jan 20, 2009 7:01 pm
retired2 - Gary,
When you solve the problem of the burst of cold water in the shower, please let us know. We're in Tallahassee FL right now. The temp is supposed to get down to 17-21 degrees, depending who we're listening to. That burst of cold water is going to be doubly bad tonight.

Tater



RE:Eliminating cold water burst from shower head
by retired2 on Tue Jan 20, 2009 10:18 pm
Tater

If I ever figure out what is causing the cold water burst, I will post it for all. I have had 3 RV's with showers and am familiar with several others and the WildCat is the only one with this problem. Forest River says it is because the exterior faucets are open, but that isn't the case with mine. I am going to try a different shower head, and am also calling Rod Batt for new ideas. I think it may be in the shower faucet mixer, but my shower faucet is not easy to remove -- no access panel.

We were in Ft Stockton the first of January in freezing temperature and I assure you that cold burst will give you a jolt!


Re: Eliminating cold water burst from shower head
by retired2 Yesterday at 3:59 pm
Tom
Thanks for the post. This sounds plausible. As I look back on my last 2 RV shower systems, I had a fairly equal length of hot and cold water line running to the shower. As I mentioned there was no temperature surge with them. I have continously thought of the length of the hot water line, but kept thinking that the check valve on the hot water line coming out of the hot water heater should not allow the hot water to "bleed" back down the line. The short distance of the cold water line and pressure makes some sense. As soon as I get my unit out of the shop, I will look into the possibilities of inserting the valves. I think I have a place where I can put them and create fairly uniform hot and cold line distances to the shower. If I can install them and it works, it will be a cheap fix. I would use the brass check valves from Camco. Should be easier, more compact and probably cheaper.

Thanks again Gary, Glenda and a SheltyX dog
2003 Sierra 1500HD,CC, SB, 4x4, Quadrasteer
2008 Wildcat 24RL, Trail Air Equa-flex
16K Vallley Power Pull Glider hitch



Re: Eliminating cold water burst from shower head
by shooter Yesterday at 8:38 pm
Good find, Tom- Mike -

Mike's modifications: http://community.webshots.com/album/180262704smXHmj
2001 Chevy 2500HD 4x4,8.1,Alli,3.73,CC,SB,
Bilstein shocks, CIPA 70600 mirrors, spray-liner,
Reese 16K Slider, Prodigy Brake Control,
early production 2005 Wildcat 29 BHBP w/Carefree SlideOut Kover II slide awning &
Demco Glide-Ride pin-box, Trail Air Equa-Flex suspension (self upgrade - not OEM)
shooter



Re: Eliminating cold water burst from shower head
by oldelmer1 Yesterday at 9:29 pm
It sounds like we only need to put one on the hot water line. The original poster put them on both, just cause.....

If I remember correctly, in the little access door outside for the shower faucets, there is an elbow there that connects to the back of the faucet. If we put the check valve there, it should completely stop the cold water from pushing the hot back to the hot water heater.

Its too cold here to do it and try it now. But I think we are hitting the road early February, heading south to warmer weather. I'll get a check valve and give it a try.Tom & Sharon..... North East, MD
Good Sam Club Lifetime Member
2006 Wildcat 29RLBS With Trail Air Equa-Flex, 16K Reese Slider
06' F350 XLT 4x2, 6.0 PSD, Auto, 3.73, CC/SB, SRW
Rhino Spray in Lining
KSH Tool Box/Fuel Tank Combo



Re: Eliminating cold water burst from shower head
by shooter Today at 5:49 am
Alright Tom, you are the guinneapig, lol. Let us know what you find out.- Mike -

Mike's modifications: http://community.webshots.com/album/180262704smXHmj
2001 Chevy 2500HD 4x4,8.1,Alli,3.73,CC,SB,
Bilstein shocks, CIPA 70600 mirrors, spray-liner,
Reese 16K Slider, Prodigy Brake Control,
early production 2005 Wildcat 29 BHBP w/Carefree SlideOut Kover II slide awning &
Demco Glide-Ride pin-box, Trail Air Equa-Flex suspension (self upgrade - not OEM)

I went to the local hardware store today to see if they had the back flow preventer valves, they did not, but had this thing called a SHARK-BITE connection system. You just slip the end of the PEX into the connectors and your done. Really neat and guaranteed not to leak.

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/shark-bite-fittings.html#check

A little pricey though, but for those that don't want to deal with the regular vale, this would work great.

I did get my brass 1/2 inch back flow valve from a local RV store.

Tom,

Thanks for making this issue its own post. I have the opposite problem that I get a blast of hot water. Let us know how the install goes!

Mark,

I would say that you need to put a back flow preventer valve on your COLD side. This way the HOT wont push the cold water away from the faucet. I think.....

I have my valve, and will install it soon, but wont get to test it for a while.

Scruffy & Tater, do you have this problem too????

I got to be the only one around that did not care for the Oxygenics shower head. We ended up going with one from Camco. >Link Thingy< When you turn off the shower head with the knob, the water shuts off completely. That prevents any back flow and the cold rush when turned back on. Even the DW is happy now...

AVid

AVid
For my clarification, did you have the cold water rush before changing to the Camco head? I am considering changing shower heads, and if that will do the trick, I don't need to do anything else.

Great info Tom.

These are the parts I use as all are push on and easy off
http://www.freshwatersystems.com/c-282-seatech-fittings.aspx
Here are the check valves
http://www.freshwatersystems.com/search2.aspx?IsSubmit=true&keywords=check+valve

retired2 wrote:AVid
For my clarification, did you have the cold water rush before changing to the Camco head? I am considering changing shower heads, and if that will do the trick, I don't need to do anything else.

Yes I did. The shower heads that allow the water to dribble, also allow the cold water to back up the hot water line. Thus the cold water blast when you turn it back on. The Camco head turns the water off, no reduced flow and no connection between hot and cold.
The check valve method will work also. The check valve was the way I was going to go until the DW told me she did not like the Oxygenics unit. I just stumbled on the Camco head by accident. Was pleasantly surprised when the cold water rush was gone.

John

"Forest River says it is because the exterior faucets are open, "

"Mark,

I would say that you need to put a back flow preventer
valve on your COLD side. This way the HOT wont push the cold water away
from the faucet. I think.....

I have my valve, and will install it soon, but wont get to test it for a while.

Scruffy & Tater, do you have this problem too????"


I have the same problem and hate it. I'm pretty sure it is not an exterior faucet issue, since I don't have exterior faucets. Let us know how it works Tom.

Thanks

Scott, will do.....

I was hoping Scruffy & Tater would be our guinea pig here. They are in WDW camping at this time.

Its probably going to be a good couple of weeks before we hit the road to give it a try.

Yes, we have the same problem. It's very annoying. I won't even put the shower head in it's holder, I just leave it hanging down by the floor.

We've been reading this thread with much interest. We won't be back home for another week and a half or so. Hoping someone has solved the problem by then, and we can just benefit from all your hard work. :)

Our unit is in the shop--probably for 3-4 weeks and will be a couple months or so after that before we take it out on the road. Also, I'm not sure I can get to my hot water line to install a back pressure valve.

I just bought an oxygenics head to try when I get the Cat back, but would be happy to trade for the Camco

I kind of like the Camco head - might get it.

AVid wrote:I got to be the only one around that did not care for the Oxygenics shower head. We ended up going with one from Camco. >Link Thingy< When you turn off the shower head with the knob, the water shuts off completely. That prevents any back flow and the cold rush when turned back on. Even the DW is happy now...

AVid

AVid, thanks for that bit of information. We are still using the factory shower head so I may give this a try. Worse case I end up with a better shower head and still have the hot water issue...then I would be 1 check valve away from a complete fix.

This site is great! Thanks everyone for your input! We all deserve a

I put in a backflow preventer this weekend on the hot water line in the shower from http://www.pexsupply.com/categories.asp?cID=786&brandid= . I gave it a test and it seems to work great. When the water goes back on there is only about a shotglass off cool water now. That could be due in part that we have an Oxygenetics shower head and I had installed a push button at the faucet. We will be out in a few weeks so that will give us the final test.

Thanks for the update; this is one problem I want to solve!

Question: Don't most of you hook up? If so, why are you using the shower head shutoff? I use it to conserve on-board water; if I was hooked up there would not be a problem. I guess you have to conserve in any case because the water heater is so small.

Also, you'll fill up your grey tank faster than you'd think. Scott, I have found that I really only have the cold blast when I am hooked up to water, not when I am using on-board water. I am assuming this is not the case with you?

Bob,
Thanks for the website for pex supply. Exactly where did you install this? Scruffy looked inside the little access door for the shower fittings, and he says there isn't much room in there.

Tater

Yes, we turn it off to conserve hot water. Also, I don't like water running on my face, and I'm not tall enough to avoid it. I keep the shower head down by the floor now, but if I could avoid that burst of cold water, I'd keep it in the holder.

We have the cold burst no matter what water we are using.

Bev,
That is where I installed it. You only have to cut out about 1" of pipe. I used a pvc cutter that I had in the garage. I disconnected the elbow from the back of the shower. After installing the fitting it was easy to screw the elbow back in. I also got 3 couplings and 1 removal toll for the sharkbite fitting. I am going to carry an extra piece of pex tubing with me just in case. I will be posting pictures as soon as Karyn takes them. We have done a lot of diy improvements.

Bob

Thanks. Scruffy sure does have a lot of improvs to do before mid-April.

robertz675 wrote:I put in a backflow preventer this weekend on the hot water line in the shower from http://www.pexsupply.com/categories.asp?cID=786&brandid= . I gave it a test and it seems to work great. When the water goes back on there is only about a shotglass off cool water now. That could be due in part that we have an Oxygenetics shower head and I had installed a push button at the faucet. We will be out in a few weeks so that will give us the final test.

Bob,

Glad to hear this worked. I bought the brass screw in back flow preventer, but haven't installed it yet.

You said you installed a push button shutoff at the faucet. Would you share what kind it is?

How do you like the Oxygentics shower head? It does save water, but I think its noisy and splashes too much.

moo2613 wrote:Also, you'll fill up your grey tank faster than you'd think. Scott, I have found that I really only have the cold blast when I am hooked up to water, not when I am using on-board water. I am assuming this is not the case with you?

Yes, I get the cold shock when using the pump and on-board water.

scottz wrote:Thanks for the update; this is one problem I want to solve!

Question: Don't most of you hook up? If so, why are you using the shower head shutoff? I use it to conserve on-board water; if I was hooked up there would not be a problem. I guess you have to conserve in any case because the water heater is so small.

Yes, we use the shut off to conserve hot water - at least I do, I think DW doesn't. I might try the valve idea. Any photos robertz675?

Tom
This is the kind of shut off I used http://www.green-logic.net/rasashshoffv.html however I bought it at Lowes. We both like the Oxygenetic head. It gets the soap off in even the lowest water pressure. We use a water softener so getting the soap off is even more prudent. We use it so that we can conserve the hot water because it always seems that you wash dishes and shower close to each other and a 15 year old daughter doesn't help the matter much.

I tried installing my back flow check valve yesterday, I wanted to put it right behind the access door to the shower faucets, but my door is about 6 inches to high. So when I look into the door, I can almost see the the 90* elbow.

So, I tried to install my check valve below in the basement connecting it to the PEX elbow. After playing for a while, I noticed that the PEX elbow end, the part that the tubing slips over, well, this end is too long and pushes against the valve inside the check valve causing the check valve to remain open all the time.

So, if you try doing this using one if these:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10107/s-10101/p-100000385340/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000385340/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000385340

Be sure to verify the valve closes when installed.

I am going to install one of the sharkbite check valves in the basement instead of the above valve.

Well, I went and bought some Sharkbite connectors, 90*($6.35) and found the check valves($11.95) too. So easy to replace its incredible. And there is a tool, $1.45 at Home Depot, to undo them. I already used the 2 elbows and 2 check valves. Gonna have to go get some more for safe keeping.

I did find the fittings in PVC also, the Sharkbite's are in brass.

Another fix is to install the 10 gallon water heater. When we purchased ours, we ordered it from the factory with the 10 gallon unit. We have not needed to shut off the water and then turn it back on to conserve. Maybe if we took back to back showers it might be a problem, but my wife is a early riser and I am not, so the tank can reheat the water before I use it.

I didn't know the Cat had a 10 gal tank as an option! Very nice!

MaxRock wrote:I didn't know the Cat had a 10 gal tank as an option! Very nice!

If I recall correctly, the 10 gal option is for the West Coast models.