List of quick fix / repair solutions to print out and keep in the camper.
Forest River WildcatCamperForum.com :: List of quick Fix / Problem solving solutions for your Wildcat
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List of quick fix / repair solutions to print out and keep in the camper.
1. 5th wheel hitch : The Lock latch that holds the pull arm needs to be tilted back when your hitching your camper. the latch will get bent if its in the down position when your king pin enters the locking jaws and pushes the arm out. All ways check your jaws to be sure their locked around the king pin. I painted the tips of my jaws red so it would be easy to see in dark situations. " Do Not pull the emergency brake cable and use that as a wheel chock. " When your battery runs down the brakes will release and the camper will roll if not chocked properly.
2. If Slide / landing gear stop working : Check the breakers that are located on the positive cable of your battery in the front of the camper. Follow the Red cable up and you'll see the breakers. Theres a small button on manual reset type that you push in to reset the breakers. Most new models come with AutoReset breakers, But not always.
Slides / landing gear also need periodic cleaning from road grime. Use dry lube type lubricants.
Theres another breaker that is in that same set goes to the breaker / power converter inside the camper. The other one that has the black wire on it goes to the gas detector.
If all else fails: Manual operation of the hydraulic pump. Theres a paper cover on the end of the pump, take that off and use a 1/4" hex drill bit and a electric drill to manually operate your landing gear or slides.
3. Heater Problems can sometimes be caused by Dirt dobbers making a nest in the vents on the outside of the camper. Be sure those openings are clear. When resetting your heater to on, Be sure to position your thermostate way above the set point so it will trigger the gas to come on. Most on here have converted to Digital units.
4. Hot Water / water lines :
Water Drains are located mostly just under the entry steps under the hot water heater.
Your main drinking water tank drain is usually in the back of the camper. Theres a switch that you can use to run your hot water tank on electric only/ or Gas/ electric together. Using the electric only saves lots of propane.
Hot water heater element is located in that out side compartment also. Be sure to have water in the tank before you turn the electric on or you will burn up the heater element.
If you have low pressure , one source to check is the outside shower if your camper is equipped with one.
5. Do not use your drinking water hose as your sewage clean out hose. Always use two hoses and keep them seperated. Use back flow valves where needed to keep contamination from happening. The most common way to drain your tanks is to open the black water ( sewage ) tank first, Then the gray water / galley tanks last to flush out the line. Some tricks for cleaning your sewage tank are to put a few gallons of water in the tank before you travel along with some dish washing detergent. It will slosh around and clean the tank as you travel down the road and loosen up any hardened toilet paper. ( Rv Paper only )
6. Air conditioning : Some problems that occur are tripping of the main inside breaker when the camp ground is over stressed on the electrical lines. Low current to the camper will trip the breaker. Especially when you try and use a couple of appliances at one time.
Power boosters are available that help out the camp ground power supply and also provide surge protection.
7. Power converter : When plugged into shore power it recharges your camper battery.
They've been known to " Cook" / boil your battery by over charging it. So be aware and keep a check on your battery. Always be sure you've vented your battery compartment, It will create an explosive gas.
8. Wheel Bearings : Manually repack your bearing at least once a year, especially if you travel a lot of miles through the year. Use the hub zerk ( grease fitting on the hub ) with only a couple of shots of grease each time you do it. Manually grease them, Do not use an Air operated grease gun. If you pump to much grease it will squeeze into the brake drum and your brakes will not work.
9. Valve Stems : The original valve stems that come on the wildcats are " CRAP". If it didn't come with metal Heavy duty stems, Make your first stop the tire dealer for new valve stems. The plain rubber ones will crack at the base and cause tire failure.
10. Tire Changes / Tire Wear : Odd tire wear can be caused by bad axle installation. If you experience this type of tire wear have your axles checked for alignment .
Proper air pressure is a must. Most tires should run (65lbs) check with your tire dealer if you don't know for sure. Low air will cause heat to build up in the tire as you travel, which usually ends in a blow out that takes out your fender skirts. Make sure you have proper RV trailer tires. Tires should be changed out after 5yrs even if they still have lots of tread. Always inspect your suspension mounting hardware for loose nuts, cracked springs etc...... Double check your LUG NUTS everytime you hitch up to the camper and inspect them each time you stop on your travels.
Changing a Tire on the Road : They make a small ramp for tire changing. You pull the good tire up on the ramp and it lifts the bad tire off the ground. This can be done in a reverse direction depending on what tire is bad.
I take a big Bottle Jack with me and a couple of small square blocks of wood to put under the jack. I know everyone says do not lift the trailer with the end of the axle , But i've done it very carefully every time I've changed a tire with no problems with no damage to the axle. If your on the side of the road you want to be able to get going as fast as possible. Just remember to loosen the lugs before you get the tire off the ground.
The Proper way to lift the trailer is by the trailer frame itself. Or use one of the small ramps for lifting the tire off the ground. Put the ramp in front of the front tire if the rear tire is bad and pull the trialer forward up the ramp . If the front tire is bad, put the ramp behind the rear tire and back the trailer up the ramp in reverse direction until the bad tire is off the ground. Remember : Loosen the lugs before you lift the tire...
11. Propane tanks / Stove : To bleed the lines, lite the burners on the stove to purge any air in the gas lines.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++
More to come, revisions etc.........
2. If Slide / landing gear stop working : Check the breakers that are located on the positive cable of your battery in the front of the camper. Follow the Red cable up and you'll see the breakers. Theres a small button on manual reset type that you push in to reset the breakers. Most new models come with AutoReset breakers, But not always.
Slides / landing gear also need periodic cleaning from road grime. Use dry lube type lubricants.
Theres another breaker that is in that same set goes to the breaker / power converter inside the camper. The other one that has the black wire on it goes to the gas detector.
If all else fails: Manual operation of the hydraulic pump. Theres a paper cover on the end of the pump, take that off and use a 1/4" hex drill bit and a electric drill to manually operate your landing gear or slides.
3. Heater Problems can sometimes be caused by Dirt dobbers making a nest in the vents on the outside of the camper. Be sure those openings are clear. When resetting your heater to on, Be sure to position your thermostate way above the set point so it will trigger the gas to come on. Most on here have converted to Digital units.
4. Hot Water / water lines :
Water Drains are located mostly just under the entry steps under the hot water heater.
Your main drinking water tank drain is usually in the back of the camper. Theres a switch that you can use to run your hot water tank on electric only/ or Gas/ electric together. Using the electric only saves lots of propane.
Hot water heater element is located in that out side compartment also. Be sure to have water in the tank before you turn the electric on or you will burn up the heater element.
If you have low pressure , one source to check is the outside shower if your camper is equipped with one.
5. Do not use your drinking water hose as your sewage clean out hose. Always use two hoses and keep them seperated. Use back flow valves where needed to keep contamination from happening. The most common way to drain your tanks is to open the black water ( sewage ) tank first, Then the gray water / galley tanks last to flush out the line. Some tricks for cleaning your sewage tank are to put a few gallons of water in the tank before you travel along with some dish washing detergent. It will slosh around and clean the tank as you travel down the road and loosen up any hardened toilet paper. ( Rv Paper only )
6. Air conditioning : Some problems that occur are tripping of the main inside breaker when the camp ground is over stressed on the electrical lines. Low current to the camper will trip the breaker. Especially when you try and use a couple of appliances at one time.
Power boosters are available that help out the camp ground power supply and also provide surge protection.
7. Power converter : When plugged into shore power it recharges your camper battery.
They've been known to " Cook" / boil your battery by over charging it. So be aware and keep a check on your battery. Always be sure you've vented your battery compartment, It will create an explosive gas.
8. Wheel Bearings : Manually repack your bearing at least once a year, especially if you travel a lot of miles through the year. Use the hub zerk ( grease fitting on the hub ) with only a couple of shots of grease each time you do it. Manually grease them, Do not use an Air operated grease gun. If you pump to much grease it will squeeze into the brake drum and your brakes will not work.
9. Valve Stems : The original valve stems that come on the wildcats are " CRAP". If it didn't come with metal Heavy duty stems, Make your first stop the tire dealer for new valve stems. The plain rubber ones will crack at the base and cause tire failure.
10. Tire Changes / Tire Wear : Odd tire wear can be caused by bad axle installation. If you experience this type of tire wear have your axles checked for alignment .
Proper air pressure is a must. Most tires should run (65lbs) check with your tire dealer if you don't know for sure. Low air will cause heat to build up in the tire as you travel, which usually ends in a blow out that takes out your fender skirts. Make sure you have proper RV trailer tires. Tires should be changed out after 5yrs even if they still have lots of tread. Always inspect your suspension mounting hardware for loose nuts, cracked springs etc...... Double check your LUG NUTS everytime you hitch up to the camper and inspect them each time you stop on your travels.
Changing a Tire on the Road : They make a small ramp for tire changing. You pull the good tire up on the ramp and it lifts the bad tire off the ground. This can be done in a reverse direction depending on what tire is bad.
I take a big Bottle Jack with me and a couple of small square blocks of wood to put under the jack. I know everyone says do not lift the trailer with the end of the axle , But i've done it very carefully every time I've changed a tire with no problems with no damage to the axle. If your on the side of the road you want to be able to get going as fast as possible. Just remember to loosen the lugs before you get the tire off the ground.
The Proper way to lift the trailer is by the trailer frame itself. Or use one of the small ramps for lifting the tire off the ground. Put the ramp in front of the front tire if the rear tire is bad and pull the trialer forward up the ramp . If the front tire is bad, put the ramp behind the rear tire and back the trailer up the ramp in reverse direction until the bad tire is off the ground. Remember : Loosen the lugs before you lift the tire...
11. Propane tanks / Stove : To bleed the lines, lite the burners on the stove to purge any air in the gas lines.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++
More to come, revisions etc.........
_________________
Phillip , Carol & Meredith
2007 Wildcat 32Qbbs
2001 Ford F350, SRW 7.3 PSD,Mich tires, Reese 16K ,FW tailgate.

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