Seeking Feedback on Idea

What do you think of this improvement idea?

I currently carry planking for leveling in the bed of the TV. It may be 75 - 100 lbs worth of treated 2X of several lengths. I am considering having a stowage area added between the rear wheels of our 29rlbs and the steps. It would be metal and either welded or bolted to the frame members with strapping. It would need to be well enough enclosed that no pieces could fall out on the highway but ventilated enough that the lumber could dry out. I would plan to incorporate hinged doors on one or both ends for access to the blocking.

Do you think this is workable and what problems might have to be dealt with? How difficult would it be to accomplish? What might the cost be to do this? I am not a welder. Warranty is not an issue, but are there concerns about weakening the frame members?

This idea interests me as I am about 3-400 lbs over on TV GVWR when towing while being well under on all other weights. This would take weight out of the TV and reduce the pin weight at the same time.

I'm not one to give advice on any DIY projects because I'm all thumbs. But I gotta say this, you carry a whole lotta weight just for leveling. I use two 1X12's and two 2X12's that are cut into 12" lengths for leveling and have never needed anything more than that. Total weight couldn't be more than 10 pounds.

I carry the orange waffle thingies that stack about 10 high and come in a blue clothe case. They weigh all of 10 lbs and I've never had to use more that the stack that I've got in the two years that I've owned the trailer. I think they cost me all of $29.95 at Camper's Inn in Merrimack, NH.

Are you wilderness camping like scottz ? I doubt he even carrys that much leveling material. In a motorhome we used to use we only carried a 2x10 with another shorter 2x10 bolted to the top of that piece. We used it to level up anywhere we wanted to go.

So far with the cat, I've only used the light weight plastic leveling squares that connect kinda like leggo's. They come in a bag and probably only weight a couple of pounds for the whole bag. But i've never used more than one or two high at the most. Theres plenty in the bag to go 4 or 5 high which I believe I could park half way in a ditch and not use them all.... If your wilderness camping I'd say get 2 of the bags of levelers and that should do ya.
Mine are called Lynx levelers.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-jacks/leveling-blocks-rv.htm

Camping world has a similar set about the same price for a set of 10.
I'd go that route first before you modified your camper. You can also eliminate a lot of weight.

I too think you should reconsider carrying all that lumber.

This is all I carry along with 4 6" long blocks of 4x4 for the rear stabilizers. Even when camping off-road, I can never remember using more than two of the waffle blocks.

The waffle blocks are great; very light, easy to use, easy to store.

Glen, I can relate to how your thinking though. Being raised on a farm all I ever saw my dad use was huge 12" x 12 " beams and Blocks to jack everything up under the sun.... He walked around my camper the other week and spotted the little orange blocks in the side compartment. He picked'em up - looked at the wheels , shook his head in a " yes " movement, set them back down and didn't say anything about them. But I could read his mind though. " Dang , wish they'd had those back in the day " ....

Yea me to. I'm the one that had to lug all that stuff around.

I carry some blocks, typically for use under the front & rear stabilizers. For leveling the camper, I made a ramp. The bottom board is a 2x8 approximately 6' long, w/ a 4' long middle board and a 2' long top board. The boards are all screwed together with the ends bevel cut to make it easier to pull on. When pulling up to the camp site, I park the Cat in the spot I want to set it up. I look at the level that is mounted on the hitch pin ( it is placed in an area that I can see it in the rear view mirror). I will place the ramp by the wheels on the low side. Pull forward enough to clear the ramps. I'll then slide the ramps directly behind the wheels and back up while watching the level. When the level reads "level" I'll stop. Works really well. It will give approximately 5" of lift and have needed that plus more in some of the poorly maintained parks we've stayed in.

Another advantage of this ramp is if you have a flat, you can drive up on the ramp and let the flat tire hang off the ramp. The good tire will be on the top part of the ramp and the flat tire will be off the ground. Quicker and less hassle than using a jack.

I use something very similar to what Mark describes, only have 2, 4"x8" blocks cut with a taper on one end to fit up under the edge of the tire. The blocks are cut to a length that will fit between the two tires. (they are actually 2, 2x8's screwed together.) I can put the cat where I want it, slide one block between the tires and the other in front (or back) of the tire and drive up onthem. The DW watches the level and tells me when to stop. I found some 3"x3" lumber in a scrap pile and cut some 12" lengths which I can use to chock the tire to keep it from moving. I have been using this system for over 20years and it works well for me. I am now planning to build a third such block to put uner the TV tire when I am really off level, since I do not have a 4 way tilt head on the hitch.

You can use one of the bevel blocks for the tire changing activity. Have done it several times. (Although I have heard that the block method doesn't work well with the Equa-Flex?)

I carry a milk crate full of other 10-12" blocks for use with the stabilizers, etc. All of this sets in the front basement compartment. I usually carry the beveled blocks in the bed of the TV, as they are need first thing. If they are not needed for leveling, they can be used under the rear stabilizers

Thanks for all the input. A lot of alternatives to my method out there!
While not wanting to be rude or hurt any feelings, I would still aprreciate any response to the questions I asked.

Thanks, again.

Don't know about cost, but I think it would be a great idea. Similar to what alot of utility trailers have to hold their ramps? I would think that some extruded metal for the bottom and sides and some 2" angle would be plenty. I do not see where it would hurt your frame at all. Alot os us have welded to the frame with no issue.

I would put the toolbox on the awning side, help offset the weight of the slide. That is a good idea...if the 29BHBP didn't have so much storage space, I might would do this upgrade as well.

MaxRock wrote:The bottom board is a 2x8 approximately 6' long, w/ a 4' long middle board and a 2' long top board.

It will give approximately 5" of lift and have needed that plus more in some of the poorly maintained parks we've stayed in.

Are the boards centered or offset?

got pictures?

We carry a mess of boards. When we were in Virginia last month, we needed 3.5 inches of lift on 1 side. We had to borrow some boards from the CG.

Glen, sounds like a good idea, try to use some heavy gauge wire fence, or wirecloth, as the bottom so the air can blow through it as you go down the road.

Tom,

When I get off of work I'll go take some pictures and post them.

Thanks Mark....

Too much lumber.